Houston

(From August 2009) There are voluptuous-burger people and slim-burger people. If your taste in burgers runs more to Scarlett Johansson than, say, Audrey Hepburn, go eat this sandwich now: the half-pound patty of freshly ground Black Angus beef arrives all shimmering and juicy on a toasted whole-wheat bun. The lettuce is crisp, the thin-sliced pickles are tart, and the tomato is a ripe red instead of a pale green. For a small fee, you may have your choice of one of six cheeses—adding the rich, creamy asadero results in custom-made gloppiness where every flavor still stands on its own: perfection on a bun.

Leave a Review

(From August 2009) Here’s a burger you could take to a Fourth of July picnic: hand-patted, half-inch-thick meat patty; sesame-seed bun lightly toasted; tomato sliced thick; iceberg lettuce shredded for that essential bit of texture that keeps everything from going mushy. Nothing fancy about this hamburger, and that’s why we like it. It is what it is, and so’s the comfy, rumpled, Mayberry-esque cafe itself. One friend’s observation says it all: “Anybody who doesn’t like the Lankford Grocery—there’s something wrong with them.”

Leave a Review

(From August 2009) Watch out. If you’re not careful, you could get your photo on the wall and a nickname like the “two-a-day kid.” But who could blame you? The burgers are delicious and cheap (our whole meal cost less than $10). Nestled between a toasty buttered bun and camouflaged by crisp chopped lettuce and glowing red tomatoes is the prize: a thick, juicy patty with just enough grease to make you do the hand jive. Combine it with a Byron Freeze (blended vanilla ice cream and root beer) and you’ll be dancing all the way home.

Leave a Review

(From August 2009) This sandwich is a brilliant example of Tex-Mex fusion: Take a patty and bun, blanket the meat in queso blanco, add a glossy slice of salty ham and a scattering of sliced jalapeños, and keep piling on with slivers of ripe avocado along with—wait, let’s do this in Spanish because it sounds so much better—tomate fresco, mayonesa, mostaza, lechuga, y cebolla. The result is a spicy, border-crossing delight that completely befits this homey pink-walled spot on Houston’s north side.

July 30th, 2009 at 9:10am
Cedric says:
I tried [Speedy's] burger because of the article in Texas Monthly. The burger was good but not what I would consider one of the best in the state. I like speedy service but [5 minutes] was a little too quick for a quality burger. My bun was warm at best. The meat was a simple soy tasting patty. There were no slices of jalapeno on the burger but there was a whole jalapeno on the side.

Leave a Review

(From August 2009) The zaftig beauties you get at this Houston-area mini-chain are gorgeous. The quarter-pound patty, from chuck ground daily, is grilled over mesquite coals. The slightly sweet bun is pale yellow and lightly toasted. Each element is stacked with care. But wait! Before chowing down, you must slather on Beck’s Prime Sauce, a silky, tomatoey mayonnaise. The finalbonus is that Beck’s, though comfy and informal, is no dive; you could take your grandma here.

Leave a Review

(From June 2008) Menu surprise: Extremely hot hot links. Seriously.
There’s always a line at this clapboard take-out shack. Plump, pink pork ribs, cooked over post oak in a steel pit for two and a half hours, were irresistible. Smoky brisket was fall-apart tender. Commercially made beef-and-pork links tasted decidedly uncommercial. The sauce was tangy, good for dipping ribs and links. The sole sides were mustardy potato salad and saucy beans, both made with care.

Leave a Review

(From July 2009) This gem is heaven sent. Impeccably fresh Thai food is served by cordial staffers who greet their customers like regulars—which many are, dating from this site’s Golden Room days. We started with delicate pork dumplings and bracing lemongrass hot-and-sour soup. Shrimp Garden, a dish of stir-fried shrimp in a Thai chile sauce with fresh vegetables, was well-nigh perfect, and the massaman curry, with chicken, pineapple, and potato, was sublime. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From August 2009) This Colorado import has rocked Houston’s burger world. Sizable crowds create parking problems, but patience is rewarded with tasty, messy burgers made with fresh Angus beef. Numerous add-ons make any combination possible—fried eggs, jalapeños, applewood-smoked bacon. We were plenty pleased with our Spicy Baja Burger, with pepperjack cheese, guacamole, and jalapeños on a chipotle bun. Make sure to get an order of Smashfries, crispy potatoes tossed with herbs and garlic. Salads, chicken, and hot dogs are also available. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From June 2008) Notable decor: Walls sanctified with religious iconography.
Three-plus years ago, Adrian Hands-borough converted the neighborhood convenience store his mom, Virgie, ran for 35 years and began cooking over oak and pecan in two small barrels. His brisket, only a tad fatty, smokes for ten to fourteen hours; we could cut ours with a plastic fork. Well-seasoned pork ribs boasted a generous meat-fat ratio, and beef sausage came on slow but strong. The thick, snappy sauce is sweetened with molasses. Host and dining room were both cheery and inviting.

Leave a Review

(From July 2008) There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas.

Leave a Review