Houston

(From January 2011)

Landmark Hospitality Group’s takeover of the restaurant in the Galleria Saks store included a welcome redo, and the resulting white-to-beige space, featuring a lighted rose sculpture on one wall, should suit savvy shoppers who crave a break from the chase. For lunch we chose the special, halibut with crab and saffron risotto, along with a salad of greens and cantaloupe, but we found the chicken and wild mushroom crepes in basil-chardonnay sauce even more special. This quiet haven beats nearby fast-food joints, and it’s only a few dollars more. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From May 2011) Surprisingly, we found inconsistencies with the usually flawless plates at this deservedly popular pub-like spot. The piquant Asian-style crabcake proved slightly mushy (with some shell mixed in, alas) and was topped with under-cooked shrimp, and our juicy burger, crowned with cheddar and bacon, was bloody rare on one side and medium-well on the other. But our entrée of salmon atop lentils and root vegetables, the fish silky and Bible-thick, was nigh perfect, and we devoured a side of crispy fries and a salad of wintery greens glossed with citrus dressing. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From October 2010)

Get used to the word “gastropub”—a concept combining a love of brew with ambitious fare that starts (but does not end) with American comfort food. Gastropubs are all the rage, and at BRC executive chef Jeff Axline is giving his spin to classics like Maryland crab cakes (impressive lump crab, lightly crusted, with a sprightly tartar sauce) and fish and fries (amazingly flavorful cod in a puffy batter jacket). An unexceptional salad of greens and roasted capon was redeemed by dessert, a sultry white- and dark-chocolate-laced bread pudding in caramel sauce. Oh, the Pickle Jar (cukes and asparagus, all home-cured) is a must for the table, as is a round of beers from the two-dozen-plus on tap. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From October 2010) Now a Fourth Ward veteran rather than the new kid on the block, Scott Tycer’s bistro, a handsome, industrial redo, can still be counted on for honest, inventive dishes full of fresh ingredients. The signa-ture rustic bread, served as soon as we sat down, set the tone for our meal. Chipotle chiles gave an interesting edge to gazpacho, but the clear no-meat winner was the delectable onion bread pudding, light and custardy within, encased in leek greens. Scallops, crusty outside and moist throughout, could not have been better. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From March 2011) Attached to its own upscale grocery, the bistro gets fresh fare right on site and prepares it well. Add a sleek, wood-accented setting, good service, and convenient hours (especially for the nearby concert venue), and it’s no surprise that the crowds keep coming. One of us ate lightly with a luscious tarte flambée (think smoked bacon and crème fraiche) and a crab cake with cayenne rémoulade, while the other went for an oak-grilled 12-ounce strip with a green-peppercorn rub and sides of frites and asparagus. Bar

Leave a Review

Photograph by Donna Smith

(From August 2011)

Just a little picket fence separates this down-home cafe’s picnic grounds from Main Street and the constant stream of Metro trains—only in Houston. Families dominate the outside tables; grown-ups keep cool inside. Our generous hand-cut chicken-fried steak came with fine sausage gravy and real mashed potatoes; the Daughter-in-Law Burger was an excellent veggie sandwich served with crisp onion rings. The rum-and-grenadine-laden Sucker Punch was so sweet we decided we’d go with beer next time. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From February 2012)

We were pleased as punch that this chic, well-designed café was relaxing and less crowded (and with better parking) than the mother ship, Tiny Boxwoods. Beautiful oversized cinnamon rolls dripping in frosting beckoned from the pastry case, but we stuck to the special Sunday brunch chalkboard entrees, which were fine indeed. Large blueberry pancakes, popping with fresh fruit and set off by not-too-sweet maple syrup, vied for best dish with tummy-warming shrimp and grits with a piquant dark roux. Beer & Wine.

Leave a Review

(From February 2012)

The gold standard for serious restaurants for more years than we can count, Tony’s still holds its own. Spacious and airy, the dramatic dining room provides the backdrop for serious head-turning – and serious food. Faves include mussels steamed with tomatoes, garlic, and pinot grigio; a juicy roasted hen with farrotto; and a great pappardelle Bolognese. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From August 2011)

The front room is intimate and clubby, the back room is open and festive, but both feature expert service. And they’re both loud, like a good party. Two salads—roasted beets with goat cheese and baby greens with blue cheese and pear—were decidedly delicious. The featured “small” filet topped with shrimp (with asparagus and wild mushroom sides) and the Gulf snapper with crab on a sherry-lobster sauce were well nigh perfect. Not that we’re complaining, but the portions seem sized for linebackers. We happily grazed on our leftovers the next day. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From February 2012)

Abuzz with the business crowd, this dashing contemporary space makes quite a feast for the eyes. But our food got mixed reviews. Best bets were from the Bar Annie side of the menu, like the juicy burger and the perfect fried chicken (crisp, plump morsels of white meat), which came with a zippy chipotle–blue cheese dip and an iceberg salad with cherry tomatoes. Less successful was a generous salad piled high with crab and Gulf shrimp but scantily dressed with a boring Thousand Island. Bar.

Leave a Review