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CRUSH WINE BAR & DELI

701 S. Polk
(806-418-2011)
Open Mon 11-2, Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun.
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$

Amarillo

Mediterranean

(From June 2011)

A Saturday afternoon visit to this downtown spot found plenty of lunch and brunch options. We went with the popular turkey-jalapeño sandwich and the Kobe Benedict. The panino did not disappoint, with its warm sliced turkey, caramelized onions, cheese, avocado, and crisp bacon, but the winner at our table was definitely the Benedict: The eggs were perfectly cooked, and the ground meat had a rich beefiness that worked well with the spicy green-chile-white-wine sauce. Crush has, of course, an almost overwhelming selection of wines, and brews are a specialty too. Quiz your servers, who are knowledgeable about the libations and generous with the samples.

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FINO

2905 San Gabriel, second level
(512-474-2905)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11-3.
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$$-$$$

Austin

Mediterranean

 

(From November 2011)

Languid evenings lounging on the patio warrant a round of small plates: Fattoush, a meld of cucumber, tomato, toasted pita crumbs, and copious feta crumbles, is the last taste of summer; fried anchovy-stuffed olives powdered in sharp paprika whet the appetite; grilled baby octopus tastes like a Mediterranean vacation. All pair with the ingredient-intense cocktails that seem de rigueur nowadays. We learned all about genever and hope that bacon bourbon is just a phase for mixologist Josh Loving. Bar. 

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OLIVIA

2043 S. Lamar
(512-804-2700)
Lunch Fri & Sat 11–2. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11, Sun 5:30–10. Brunch Sun 10:30–2:30.
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$$$

Austin

Mediterranean

 

(From January 2011) The Olivia salad—mixed greens tossed with a smoked-tomato vinaigrette—started us off in the right direction. We took in the kitchen garden on the grounds and the twinkling stars overhead while we sipped sparkling rosé and waited for our entrées. The scallops—pan-seared with crème fraîche, arugula, and romesco—proved delightful until we hit a gritty spot. We found no fault, however, with the delicious Por-tuguese Stew. The thoughtful melding of flavors—lamb chorizo, shrimp, amberjack, mussels, and chickpeas in a spicy saffron broth—proved that chef-owner James Holmes still has it going on at this stylish spot. Bar.

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SOLEIL

6550 Comanche Trail
(512-266-0600)
Open Sun–Thur 11:30–10, Fri & Sat 11:30–11.
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$$$

Austin

Mediterranean

 

(From March 2011) Lake Travis is hardly a destination for fancy eats. But famed Houston chef Robert Del Grande and local chef George Thomas (formerly of Kenichi) are challenging that notion. Their collaboration on Soleil is the best thing to happen so far at the ongoing redevelopment of the Oasis into a retail and dining extravaganza. Del Grande is not actually cooking, of course (he just consulted), but Thomas is doing a good to excellent job with Mediterranean-oriented dishes like seared ahi tuna on Tuscan beans: two giant ruby-red hunks on a bed of gloriously mushy cannellini beans accented with Sicilian pesto (which means with added sun-dried tomato and anchovy). Although much of the rather pricey menu is fish-oriented, an excellent New York steak, topped with Gorgonzola dolce and a fabulous fig steak sauce, will make meat eaters very happy. Desserts are a work in progress (the best of a boring lot was a fluffy tiramisu with negligible espresso flavor), but the rustic-sleek room is a nice distraction, with subtle aqua wave motifs and quirky mounted turquoise deer heads—faux, we hasten to add. Bar.

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SHIRAZ SHISH KABOB

110 Dominik Dr.
(979-694-8385)
Open 7 days 11-10.
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$$

College Station

Mediterranean

 

(From February 2012)

Relinquishing mammoth pieces of delectable flatbread to leave room for the main course can be a struggle here. Dipped in a bowl of creamy hummus, said flatbread could easily make a meal. But there are too many other temptations at the sole Middle Eastern restaurant in this area. We enjoyed skewers of perfectly seasoned game hen and marinated lamb, each bite testifying to the quality and freshness of the meat. Vegetarian options are also plentiful, ranging from stuffed grape leaves to khoresht fesenjan, a Persian pomegranate-and-nut stew. If you still have room, Shiraz offers an enticing baklava.

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AFRAH RESTAURANT & PASTRIES

314 E. Main, Richardson
(972-234-9898)
Open Sun–Thur 10–midnight, Fri & Sat 10–1 a.m.
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$–$$

Dallas

Mediterranean

 

(From September 2010) Black and white photos of Beirut grace the walls of this small, utilitarian Mediterranean eatery (look for the rust-colored freestanding building), where there are plenty of stars on the menu. Hummus and tabbouleh were exemplary; fried falafel and sautéed squash stuffed (how did they do that?) with tomatoes, sirloin, and rice were outstanding; and sides of roasted cauliflower, rice with pine nuts, and baby okra were delightful tidbits.

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DRAGONFLY

Hotel ZaZa, 2332 Leonard, just off McKinney Ave
(214-468-8399)
Open Sun–Wed 7 a.m.–10 p.m., Thur–Sat 7–11.
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$$-$$$

Dallas

Mediterranean /
Eclectic

 

(From June 2011)

There’s a new chef from across the Trinity River: Dan Landsberg, formerly of Tillman’s, has brought a New American approach to Dragonfly’s menu, which has resulted in some lovely dishes. Crusted with thyme leaves and minced garlic, our Bay of Fundy salmon was cooked to perfection and plated with toasted orzo and baby spinach. Dessert of a small chocolate bundt cake filled with peanut butter mousse and drizzled with fudge sauce and crushed peanuts was top of the world. We like the new, more serene black and white decor and the lovely cluster of pendant lighting in the center of the room. The bar scene is as lively as always. Bar.

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MAMA PITA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

The Shops at Legacy, 5800 Legacy Drive
(972-403-1609)
Open Sun-Thur 11am-9:30pm, Fri & Sat 11am-10:30pm.
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$-$$

Dallas

Mediterranean

 

(From January 2012)

This cafeteria-style spot is a quick fix for those craving Mediterranean flavors. Choose a platter, salad, or pita wrap, then load up with dips (carrot hummus, tzatziki), salads (tabbouleh, pickled eggplant), and sauces (cilantro basil, tahini). Finally top it all off with your choice of falafel, kafta, or skewers of marinated chicken, steak, shrimp, or vegetables. Beer & wine.

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MEDINA OVEN & BAR

2304 Victory Park Ln
(214-979-0003)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat noon–11, Sun noon–10.
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$$

Dallas

Mediterranean

 

(From February 2011) Take a ride on a magic carpet and delight yourself with a rosemary chicken pizza, thin, crispy dough topped with pesto and two cheeses (mozzarella and goat) and strewn with green Moroccan olives. Of the four desserts offered, we highly recommend the orange blossom crème brûlée with berries; its silken texture is delightful. Everything in the place evokes Morocco, from the metal lanterns and shiny tiles surrounding the oven to the hues of scarlet, purple, and ocher on the banquettes. Perfect for cooler evenings is a lovely patio overlooking a small park. Bar.

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NOSH EURO BISTRO

4216 Oak Lawn Ave
(214-528-9400)
Open Mon–Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Closed Sun.
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$$–$$$

Dallas

French /
Mediterranean

 

(From May 2011) We welcome the more casual setting of Avner Samuel’s newest restaurant and are elated that the food is as good as it is, given the reasonable prices. Creamy hummus came with handcrafted pita, and crispy cakes of falafel, bright green with parsley, sat atop a tangy roasted-red-pepper sauce. Velvety slices of grilled ahi tuna came draped over a crunchy dice of cucumber, mango, and orange and were sprinkled with watercress, a nice finishing touch. Expert service. Bar.

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