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A+A SICHUAN GARDEN
13376 U.S. 183N (512-258-5445) Open 7 days 11–9:30. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$–$$ |
Austin
| Chinese |
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(From June 2011) If this counter-order place reminds you a bit of Asia Cafe, a mere half a mile down the highway, it’s because both a chef and some servers from the front of that house have gone over to this one. A+A is a place to be adventurous, friends. Try the Cold Jelly Noodles, chopped thick and sea-soned with ma la (also called prickly ash or Sichuan pepper-corn), which produces a tingly, tongue-numbing sensation and has a lemony taste. Or check out the twice-fried pork, identical to thick bacon and as rich as the description sug-gests; stalks of garlic shoots, a cross between green beans and asparagus in texture, soak up the delicious fat. After that, the deep-fried triangles of sesame tofu in a light, sweet sauce will seem like diet food.
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EMPEROR GARDEN
620 W. Calton Rd (956-791-4848) Open Mon–Thur 10:30–10, Fri–Sun 10:30–11. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Laredo
| Chinese / Japanese |
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(From April 2012) Others have come and gone, but this evergreen continues to be the benchmark for Asian cuisine. A voluminous menu encompasses Chinese, Southeast Asian, and Japanese, with standard-bearers in each category. A recent outing brought a bold garlic frittered chicken, ready to be dipped in a sauce bright with chile and sweet orange. Succulent scallion-ginger lamb married the astringent qualities of ginger with sautéed scallion nubbins. We ended our evening with a temaki (hand roll), fat with salmon fragrantly burnished with sake. Bar.
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FUNG’S KITCHEN
7320 Southwest Fwy (U.S. 59) (713-779-2288) Open Sun–Thur 10:30–10, Fri & Sat 10–11. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Houston
| Chinese |
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(From March 2011) Friendly and accessible, this spacious room ensures quick seating for parties of all sizes, from couples to large families, and it earns raves for its fresh seafood and traditional, and typically encyclopedic, menu. Among the 400 or so items there are plenty of dishes for the adventurous (sesame jellyfish, preserved duck tongue) and the cautious (reliably good pan-fried dumplings, crispy spring rolls). We’re big fans of the tender pork in orange sauce and the fresh squid sautéed with Chinese broccoli, both generously portioned and great for lunch the next day. Beer & wine.
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GRAND CHINA BUFFET
5902 Broadway (409-741-9888) Open Sun–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–10:30. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Galveston
| Chinese / Sushi |
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(From May 2011) Sheriff’s deputies, cops, attorneys, and jurors are flocking to this attractive, family-run spot near the county justice center for classic Chinese dishes. Order from the menu or take a spin around the six sleek buffet tables; there are sushi and stir-fry bars as well. Everything is fresh and artfully seasoned. Liquor license pending.
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HAPPY BUDDHA
2827 61st (409-744-5774) Open Sun–Thur 11–9:30, Fri & Sat 11–10:30. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Galveston
| Chinese |
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(From March 2012) Fresh ingredients, generous servings, and a restrained approach to seasoning mark the Island’s only table-service Chinese restaurant. Shrimp with vegetables and Mongolian chicken won thumbs-ups from our crew. Bar.
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HOWARD WANG’S CHINA GRILL
4343 W. Northwest Hwy (Loop 12) (214-366-1606) Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 11:30-11, Sun 11:30-10. web site | map | latest review | access + | add to library |
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Dallas
| Chinese |
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(From October 2011) The elegant black-and-red decor belies the liveliness of the food here. As if the Thai rolls weren’t good enough—with their rice noodles, carrots, and sprouts—they got extra oomph from fresh basil. Mango chicken stir-fried in a tangy ginger sauce was a most generous entrée, the fresh fruit, crisp sugar snap peas, and candied walnuts (not too cloyingly sweet) adding a refreshing crunch. Bar.
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JO JO’S CHINA BISTRO
3939 Dowlen (409-892-9119) Open Sun–Thur 10:30–10, Fri & Sat 10:30–10:30. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$–$$ |
Beaumont
| Chinese |
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(From March 2011) This is our go-to place for Chinese. We like the modern surroundings and the friendly staff, who always seem to know we’re craving those succulent pan-fried dumplings with tangy ginger sauce. We’ve tried almost every entrée, from traditional chicken, beef, and seafood dishes to house specialties, and find the portions abundant, the ingredients fresh, and the seasonings superlative (particularly the spicy dishes). And we’re convinced the velvety wonton soup has curative powers. BYOB.
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MALA SICHUAN BISTRO
9348 Bellaire Blvd (713-995-1889) Open 7 days 11-10 map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Houston
| Chinese |
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(From May 2012) Aptly named (the Chinese characters that make up the word “mala” mean “numbing” and “spicy”), this bustling newcomer in Bellaire’s Chinatown draws curious chile heads and Asian locals. Traditional hot and sour soup—fiery, in-your-face stuff—was perfect for a cool night. We soothed our seared mouths with mildly spiced petite pork dumplings and sautéed spinach sporting slices of raw garlic. Only overcooked prawns in the Chengdu-style hot pot disappointed. Still, we’d happily return for such complex dishes at bargain prices. BYOB.
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PHO 20
2101 Broadway (409-750-9200) Open Mon-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | photo | access + | add to library |
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Galveston
| Vietnamese / Chinese |
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(From March 2012) This noodle shop does a commendable job with Chinese dishes, but we keep returning for the Vietnamese classics. Well-seasoned beef with vermicelli rewarded us with tender meat, crunchy vegetables, and a subtly complex fish sauce.
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ROYAL CHINA
Preston Royal Shopping Center, Preston Rd at Royal Ln, northeast corner (214-361-1771) Lunch Sun–Fri 11–2:30. Dinner Sun–Thur 4:30–9:30, Fri & Sat 4:30–10. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Dallas
| Chinese |
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(From May 2012) Asian "tostados" - shrimp, pepper, onion, avacado, and kicky mustard on crispy wontons - make a yummy alternative to the usual starter of hot and sour soup. We ordered satay skewers with beef, chicken, and vegetable; dumplings of pork, chives, and napa cabbage; and sesame chicken, crispy and bite-size, in a just-right sweet sauce. Watching the dumpling master throw his dough around is like watching a circus act; the kids love it. The ambience is rather elegant, but the service could use some tweaking. Bar.
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