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DA MARCO
1520 Westheimer Rd, at Ridgewood (713-807-8857) Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Italian |

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(From May 2011) The 48-ounce porterhouse made the guys in our group very happy. The distaff side of the party acquitted itself admirably with a couple of items from the blackboard menu—scallops with a tangerine mostarda, snapper ravioli with herbs and pecorino—plus a hefty veal chop with black truffle risotto. Prices are not modest, but for our money the best Italian food in town—indeed, some of the best food, period—can be found in this cozy cottage. Bar.
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FRANKLIN BARBECUE
900 E. 11th (512-653-1187) Open Tue–Sun 11–until they sell out. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Austin
| Barbecue |

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Photograph by Brian Birzer
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(From June 2011) Smoke is wafting into the air again from the site of the former Ben's Longbranch. But the occupant of the revamped old building is a young'un, namely Aaron Franklin, who had quite an avid following at his barbecue trailer. Acolytes at this altar of 'cue start the vigil hours before the the door opens, and the Last Man Standing sign (sold out!) has reportedly appeared as early as 12:30. Happily, the move into cinder-block-and-mortar hasn't changed the meltingly moist brisket or the fluffy (yet crusty-edged) shreds of pulled pork. We can't attest to the pork ribs; they were gone by the time we reached the counter. A nice touch: Wife and partner Stacy Franklin sometimes comes around to offer a Mexican Coke while you wait. Beer.
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INDIKA
516 Westheimer Rd (713-524-2170) Open Tue–Fri 11:30–2:30, Dinner Tue-Thur 6–10, Fri & Sat 6–10:30. Brunch Sun 10:30-2:30. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$–$$$ |
Houston
| Indian |

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(From May 2011) Even on a rainy day, this airy room, with its warm saffron-hued walls and large windows, brightens our spirits. A kale and blueberry salad with spiced cashews and a pickled lime dressing was equally inspiring. Our chile-head friend relished his entrée of tender jumbo prawns in a spicy curry with slow-cooked savoy cabbage; our vegetarian pal lauded a portobello mushroom lushly layered with spinach, butternut squash, curried garbanzos, and goat cheese. Chocolate bread pudding with coffee caramel made a perfect finish. Bar.
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STEPHAN PYLES
1807 Ross Ave (214-580-7000) Lunch Mon–Fri 11:15–2. Dinner Mon–Thur 6–10:30, Fri & Sat 6–11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
Dallas
| Southwestern |

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(From May 2011) We love the warm, eclectic feel of this place—the rustic-modern decor, the roomy spacing of the tables, the small but lovely outdoor patio. Turning our attention to the food, we started with a Caesar salad, which was elevated above the norm by polenta croutons spiced with jalapeño. Intrigued by its cross-cultural approach, we moved on to the seared tuna with pork carnitas, epazote black beans, and coconut sticky rice; we liked the Asian elements better than the Latin ones. Without realizing it, we saved the best for last: blood orange panna cotta with vanilla-scented crème fraiche, caramelized bananas, and a swirly spiced pound cake tuile. Bar (opens at 5).
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TONY’S
3755 Richmond Ave (713-622-6778) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–midnight, Sat 5:30–midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$–$$$$ |
Houston
| American |

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(From February 2012) The gold standard for serious restaurants for more years than we can count, Tony’s still holds its own. Spacious and airy, the dramatic dining room provides the backdrop for serious head-turning – and serious food. Faves include mussels steamed with tomatoes, garlic, and pinot grigio; a juicy roasted hen with farrotto; and a great pappardelle Bolognese. Bar.
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UCHI
801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808) Dinner Sun–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Reservations recommended. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Austin
| Japanese / Sushi |

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(From May 2011) Who knew you could have such fun on a Monday? Clearly everyone but us, as this place was packed to the gills. And even with Uchiko, Tyson Cole’s equally popular offshoot up north, and a beautiful new cookbook, and scads of national attention, there’s been nary a slip in the astonishing creativity and meticulous sourcing of the food (you’ll learn not only the provenance of your scallop but the name of the intrepid diver who fetched it). But nothing is taken too seriously, the flavor combinations as playful as they are innovative: thinly sliced flounder with smoked sea salt and candied quinoa; a sushi roll packed with tiger shrimp and topped with tiny slices of frozen grape; peanut butter semifreddo with apple miso sorbet. The mother ship continues to operate on all cylinders. Beer, wine, & sake.
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UCHIKO
4200 N. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808) Dinner Sun–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Austin
| Japanese / Sushi |

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(From January 2012) Ever since Tyson Cole won a James Beard award for best regional chef, getting a table at this ode to Japanese farmhouse dining is nigh impossible. But once you’re in, the kitchen delivers food as well-crafted as any haiku. Consider the poetry of maguro tuna with slivers of sweet-tart apple and lush black-pepper goat cheese. But it’s not all about the fish: Even simple brussels sprouts roasted in chile oil and fish sauce left the sweet and savory taste of umami lingering on the taste buds. The famed Tobacco Cream dessert—an oval of dark chocolate sorbet, maple pudding, and crunchy huckleberry “glass”—magically incorporates the peaty flavors of smoke and scotch. Pastry chef Philip Speer is an artist in his own right.
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BRANCH WATER TAVERN
510 Shepherd Dr, at Gibson (713-863-7777) Open Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11–4. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| American |

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(From May 2011) Surprisingly, we found inconsistencies with the usually flawless plates at this deservedly popular pub-like spot. The piquant Asian-style crabcake proved slightly mushy (with some shell mixed in, alas) and was topped with under-cooked shrimp, and our juicy burger, crowned with cheddar and bacon, was bloody rare on one side and medium-well on the other. But our entrée of salmon atop lentils and root vegetables, the fish silky and Bible-thick, was nigh perfect, and we devoured a side of crispy fries and a salad of wintery greens glossed with citrus dressing. Bar.
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DOLCE VITA
500 Westheimer Rd (713-520-8222) Open Sun & Tue–Thur noon–10, Fri & Sat noon–11. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Italian |

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(From May 2011) We lazed on the terrace of this old house on a recent evening, sipping Italian wines and feasting on shaved brussels sprouts with pecorino and paper-thin prosciutto; orecchiette spiked with escarole and sweet sausage; and a thin-crusted pizza loaded with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, and arugula. We had a minor quibble with tough paccheri pasta in a lackluster tomato sauce, but overall we were a happy bunch. Bar.
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DOUGH PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA
Blanco Junction shopping center, 6989 Blanco Rd, at Loop 410, southwest corner (210-979-6565) Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10, Sun 5-9. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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San Antonio
| Pizza |

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(From May 2011) Pizza, truly extraordinary pizza (it is “certified†authentic Neapolitan pizza), is the main draw here, but other treats abound. We’ve lunched with great satisfaction on a burrata caprese salad; the signature margherita pizza of toma-toes, cheese, and basil; a smoked salmon panino; and mushroom bruschetta. The menu is basically the same all day, and the informal but smart and tidy dining room is well tended by alert waiters. Beer & wine.
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