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AFRAH

314 E. Main, Richardson
(972-234-9898)
Open Mon–Thur 10–midnight, Fri 10–1 a.m., Sat 9-1 a.m., Sun 9-11.
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$–$$

Dallas

Mediterranean

(From May 2012)

Mediterranean comfort food at its finest can be found within this large, square room (with a delightful patio for alfresco dining). The emerald green tabbouleh has a terrific lemony taste. Little clouds of falafel almost levitate off the plate; swipe them through garlicky hummus for extra flavor. Add fried cauliflower, a small cup of lentil soup, and za’atar pie (flatbread studded with oregano, sesame seeds, and olive oil) and you can pat yourself on the back for making healthy choices. We always go for the house-made gelato, but the baklava with pistachios is good too.

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AVA KITCHEN AND WHISKEY BAR

2800 Kirby Dr, at Westheimer
(713-386-6460)
Open Mon–Wed 11–10, Thur–Sat 11–11. Closed Sun.
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$$$

Houston

Mediterranean /
French

 

(From May 2012)

The back dining area in this long, airy space keeps the bar noise tolerable and makes conversation possisble. Which only enhances appetizers like chopped asparagus enriched with cheeese and chunks of salami and an intesnsely flavored tomato basil soup with a swirl of pesto. Crispy-skinned salmon tasted juicy and mellow (though it rested on a bed of undercooked green beans), and a four-ounce filet of beef was perfectly cooked. Nice wines and service. Bar.

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BELLA ON THE RIVER

106 River Walk, just off St. Mary’s near Commerce
(210-404-2355)
Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. Reservations suggested.
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$$–$$$

San Antonio

Mediterranean

 

(From November 2011)

The cavelike space once inhabited by Dolores del Rio has a new tenant, an appealing and imaginative Mediterranean restaurant that seems to do almost everything well. The noise can be a little high and the tables are closely packed, but the kitchen can turn out such dishes as fresh, tangy asparagus soup with yogurt, Eggplant Josephine (crisp eggplant, shrimp, cheese, and hollandaise), and a Barcelona-worthy paella full of shrimp, chicken, mussels, peas, and clams. Service was tentative and lacking in polish, but, to be fair, we were there in the restaurant’s early days. We will certainly be back. Beer & wine. 

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BOARDWALK BISTRO

4011 Broadway
(210-824-0100)
Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-9 , Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun.
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$$-$$$

San Antonio

Continental /
Mediterranean

 

(From May 2012)

Northern Africa and the Middle East provide most of the inspiration at this Mediterranean outpost, but French and Spanish dishes add variety to the long menu.  Consider the chef’s tasting menu, which may be a four course dinner built around a very flavorful cinnamon lamb tagine, or perhaps paella or cassoulet.  We also thought highly of the arctic char, the very prototype of whitefish, both delicate and flavorful.  Busy, sometimes noisy, but always cheerful and clublike, Boardwalk Bistro adds live Jazz to the mix Fridays and Saturdays.

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CAFE ISTANBUL

The Shops at Legacy, 7300 Lone Star Dr
(972-398-2020)
Open 7 days 11-11.
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$$

Plano

Mediterranean /
Middle Eastern

 

(From May 2012)

This cafe’s newest outpost, in Plano, offers the same authentic Turkish food prepared daily with fresh ingredients. We started with house-made lavash alongside a delightful tzatziki studded with chunks of cucumber. Just as good were our entrées of charbroiled lamb shish kebab served with grilled tomatoes and a mix of sliced raw onion and parsley and an Istanbul doner, a meatball-like combination of ground beef and lamb marinated overnight, then grilled and served with rice pilaf. For dessert, we had kunefe, a shredded-wheat-like pastry served with sweet cheese, pistachios, and honey. Bar.

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CATALAN

5555 Washington Ave
(713-426-4260)
Open Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Closed Mon.
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$$-$$$

Houston

Mediterranean

 

(From June 2011) It was a pleasant task: introducing a teenage would-be foodie to the small-plates concept at this Spanish-inspired eatery on Washing-ton’s restaurant row. Impressed with the brick arches and long wall of wines, she readily proclaimed the pork belly with cane syrup her fa-vorite dish on first bite. Ditto for the crispy crab croquettes and local Pola cheeses with tangerine marmalade and Marcona almonds. Alas, we downgraded the seared foie gras for its mass of membranes, but competed for bites of a shared Mexican chocolate crème brûlée. Next lesson: street food. Bar.

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CRUSH WINE BAR & DELI

701 S. Polk
(806-418-2011)
Open Mon 11-2, Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun.
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$

Amarillo

Mediterranean

 

(From June 2011)

A Saturday afternoon visit to this downtown spot found plenty of lunch and brunch options. We went with the popular turkey-jalapeño sandwich and the Kobe Benedict. The panino did not disappoint, with its warm sliced turkey, caramelized onions, cheese, avocado, and crisp bacon, but the winner at our table was definitely the Benedict: The eggs were perfectly cooked, and the ground meat had a rich beefiness that worked well with the spicy green-chile-white-wine sauce. Crush has, of course, an almost overwhelming selection of wines, and brews are a specialty too. Quiz your servers, who are knowledgeable about the libations and generous with the samples.

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DRAGONFLY

Hotel ZaZa, 2332 Leonard, just off McKinney Ave
(214-468-8399)
Open Sun–Wed 7 a.m.–10 p.m., Thur–Sat 7–11.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$$-$$$

Dallas

Mediterranean /
Eclectic

 

(From June 2011)

There’s a new chef from across the Trinity River: Dan Landsberg, formerly of Tillman’s, has brought a New American approach to Dragonfly’s menu, which has resulted in some lovely dishes. Crusted with thyme leaves and minced garlic, our Bay of Fundy salmon was cooked to perfection and plated with toasted orzo and baby spinach. Dessert of a small chocolate bundt cake filled with peanut butter mousse and drizzled with fudge sauce and crushed peanuts was top of the world. We like the new, more serene black and white decor and the lovely cluster of pendant lighting in the center of the room. The bar scene is as lively as always. Bar.

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ENCANTO

6032 FM 3009
(210-888-2753)
Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri 11–11, Sat 10–11, Sun 8–9.
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$$

San Antonio

Mexican /
Mediterranean

 

(From November 2011)

There aren’t many places where a server mixes the guacamole at your table, lets you taste it, then adds whatever you like. But that’s just one of several appealing touches at this northeast side newcomer. Mexican with a bit of Mediterranean sets the tone; main courses include grilled chicken on “hominy polenta” and moist salmon with grilled red peppers, squash, asparagus, and mushrooms. Even the table salsa stood out, with its strong tomato flavor and just a touch of peppery bite. Though Encanto is big, clean, bright, and casual, there is not much atmosphere, thanks in part to the three TVs over the bar. Bar.

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FINO

2905 San Gabriel, second level
(512-474-2905)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11-3.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$$-$$$

Austin

Mediterranean

 

(From November 2011)

Languid evenings lounging on the patio warrant a round of small plates: Fattoush, a meld of cucumber, tomato, toasted pita crumbs, and copious feta crumbles, is the last taste of summer; fried anchovy-stuffed olives powdered in sharp paprika whet the appetite; grilled baby octopus tastes like a Mediterranean vacation. All pair with the ingredient-intense cocktails that seem de rigueur nowadays. We learned all about genever and hope that bacon bourbon is just a phase for mixologist Josh Loving. Bar. 

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