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BOARDWALK BISTRO
4011 Broadway (210-824-0100) Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-9 , Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | photo | access + | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
San Antonio
| Continental / Mediterranean |
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(From May 2012) Northern Africa and the Middle East provide most of the inspiration at this Mediterranean outpost, but French and Spanish dishes add variety to the long menu. Consider the chef’s tasting menu, which may be a four course dinner built around a very flavorful cinnamon lamb tagine, or perhaps paella or cassoulet. We also thought highly of the arctic char, the very prototype of whitefish, both delicate and flavorful. Busy, sometimes noisy, but always cheerful and clublike, Boardwalk Bistro adds live Jazz to the mix Fridays and Saturdays.
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NOSH EURO BISTRO
4216 Oak Lawn Ave (214-528-9400) Open Mon–Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$–$$$ |
Dallas
| French / Mediterranean |
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(From May 2011) We welcome the more casual setting of Avner Samuel’s newest restaurant and are elated that the food is as good as it is, given the reasonable prices. Creamy hummus came with handcrafted pita, and crispy cakes of falafel, bright green with parsley, sat atop a tangy roasted-red-pepper sauce. Velvety slices of grilled ahi tuna came draped over a crunchy dice of cucumber, mango, and orange and were sprinkled with watercress, a nice finishing touch. Expert service. Bar.
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THE GREEK ISLANDS
4001 34th (806-722-0444) Open Mon–Sat 11–9. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access + | add to library |
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Lubbock
| Greek / Mediterranean |
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(From August 2011) This A-frame boasts a blue-and-white-striped roof and is run by a boisterous Greek family serving up authentic dishes. We started with the scrumptious hummus, punched up with garlic and lemon and so plentiful we could have eaten nothing else and left satisfied. But then we would have missed the pastitsio, Greek “lasagne” with macaroni and creamy béchamel, and the moussaka, with its decadent layers of ground beef, eggplant, and potatoes. Don’t pass up the baklava!
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AFRAH
314 E. Main, Richardson (972-234-9898) Open Mon–Thur 10–midnight, Fri 10–1 a.m., Sat 9-1 a.m., Sun 9-11. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Dallas
| Mediterranean |
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(From May 2012) Mediterranean comfort food at its finest can be found within this large, square room (with a delightful patio for alfresco dining). The emerald green tabbouleh has a terrific lemony taste. Little clouds of falafel almost levitate off the plate; swipe them through garlicky hummus for extra flavor. Add fried cauliflower, a small cup of lentil soup, and za’atar pie (flatbread studded with oregano, sesame seeds, and olive oil) and you can pat yourself on the back for making healthy choices. We always go for the house-made gelato, but the baklava with pistachios is good too.
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AVA KITCHEN AND WHISKEY BAR
2800 Kirby Dr, at Westheimer (713-386-6460) Open Mon–Wed 11–10, Thur–Sat 11–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Houston
| Mediterranean / French |
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(From May 2012) The back dining area in this long, airy space keeps the bar noise tolerable and makes conversation possisble. Which only enhances appetizers like chopped asparagus enriched with cheeese and chunks of salami and an intesnsely flavored tomato basil soup with a swirl of pesto. Crispy-skinned salmon tasted juicy and mellow (though it rested on a bed of undercooked green beans), and a four-ounce filet of beef was perfectly cooked. Nice wines and service. Bar.
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BELLA ON THE RIVER
106 River Walk, just off St. Mary’s near Commerce (210-404-2355) Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. Reservations suggested. web site | map | latest review | no access | add to library |
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$$–$$$ |
San Antonio
| Mediterranean |
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(From November 2011) The cavelike space once inhabited by Dolores del Rio has a new tenant, an appealing and imaginative Mediterranean restaurant that seems to do almost everything well. The noise can be a little high and the tables are closely packed, but the kitchen can turn out such dishes as fresh, tangy asparagus soup with yogurt, Eggplant Josephine (crisp eggplant, shrimp, cheese, and hollandaise), and a Barcelona-worthy paella full of shrimp, chicken, mussels, peas, and clams. Service was tentative and lacking in polish, but, to be fair, we were there in the restaurant’s early days. We will certainly be back. Beer & wine.
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CAFE ISTANBUL
The Shops at Legacy, 7300 Lone Star Dr (972-398-2020) Open 7 days 11-11. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Plano
| Mediterranean / Middle Eastern |
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(From May 2012) This cafe’s newest outpost, in Plano, offers the same authentic Turkish food prepared daily with fresh ingredients. We started with house-made lavash alongside a delightful tzatziki studded with chunks of cucumber. Just as good were our entrées of charbroiled lamb shish kebab served with grilled tomatoes and a mix of sliced raw onion and parsley and an Istanbul doner, a meatball-like combination of ground beef and lamb marinated overnight, then grilled and served with rice pilaf. For dessert, we had kunefe, a shredded-wheat-like pastry served with sweet cheese, pistachios, and honey. Bar.
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CATALAN
5555 Washington Ave (713-426-4260) Open Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Closed Mon. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Mediterranean |
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(From June 2011) It was a pleasant task: introducing a teenage would-be foodie to the small-plates concept at this Spanish-inspired eatery on Washing-ton’s restaurant row. Impressed with the brick arches and long wall of wines, she readily proclaimed the pork belly with cane syrup her fa-vorite dish on first bite. Ditto for the crispy crab croquettes and local Pola cheeses with tangerine marmalade and Marcona almonds. Alas, we downgraded the seared foie gras for its mass of membranes, but competed for bites of a shared Mexican chocolate crème brûlée. Next lesson: street food. Bar.
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CRUSH WINE BAR & DELI
701 S. Polk (806-418-2011) Open Mon 11-2, Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Amarillo
| Mediterranean |
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(From June 2011) A Saturday afternoon visit to this downtown spot found plenty of lunch and brunch options. We went with the popular turkey-jalapeño sandwich and the Kobe Benedict. The panino did not disappoint, with its warm sliced turkey, caramelized onions, cheese, avocado, and crisp bacon, but the winner at our table was definitely the Benedict: The eggs were perfectly cooked, and the ground meat had a rich beefiness that worked well with the spicy green-chile-white-wine sauce. Crush has, of course, an almost overwhelming selection of wines, and brews are a specialty too. Quiz your servers, who are knowledgeable about the libations and generous with the samples.
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DRAGONFLY
Hotel ZaZa, 2332 Leonard, just off McKinney Ave (214-468-8399) Open Sun–Wed 7 a.m.–10 p.m., Thur–Sat 7–11. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Dallas
| Mediterranean / Eclectic |
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(From June 2011) There’s a new chef from across the Trinity River: Dan Landsberg, formerly of Tillman’s, has brought a New American approach to Dragonfly’s menu, which has resulted in some lovely dishes. Crusted with thyme leaves and minced garlic, our Bay of Fundy salmon was cooked to perfection and plated with toasted orzo and baby spinach. Dessert of a small chocolate bundt cake filled with peanut butter mousse and drizzled with fudge sauce and crushed peanuts was top of the world. We like the new, more serene black and white decor and the lovely cluster of pendant lighting in the center of the room. The bar scene is as lively as always. Bar.
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