Houston

(From June 2011) With good reason, Outer Loopers consider this French gem a star. Seated in the sleek dining room, with its portrait of a large Brahman bull, we fell under a spell while downing garlicky baked escargots, coquilles Saint-Jacques with fennel butter, and skewered quail with figs. How long since we’d had duck à l’orange? Chef David Denis’s version was perfect: a boned leg confit and caramelized breast with Grand Marnier sauce, alongside squash risotto and asparagus fricas-see. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From May 2011)

Have they actually lowered the prices here? Seemed so on our last visit, with a large, meaty, slow-braised lamb shank weighing in at $24. Other highlights included an imaginative kale salad with currants, pine nuts, and Parme-san, two good risottos—one with lobster and the other asparagus—and a great salad of burrata, cherry tomatoes, and arugula. Less successful was a special of roasted oysters with cheesy bread crumbs; it came oversalted and with a too-hard crust. But we happily recouped and regrouped with a shared tres leches dessert. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From February 2012)

Under peripatetic chef Kevin Ascolese, this wine-centric bistro is putting out some well-conceived fare, most recently at its handsome location in West Ave. We paired flights of white wine with silky ricotta ravioli dotted with chorizo and peas and napped with herb butter, then main courses of chicken piccata in lemon caper sauce (with fingerlings and broccolini) and grilled salmon on couscous (with haricots verts and a basil-citrus sauce). Flights of cheeses, dishes made for sharing, and an assortment of stone-fired pizzas add to the appeal. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From June 2011) It’s easy to overlook this contemporary space, so overshadowed has it been by the recent influx of Heights-area restaurants. But that would be a mistake, considering the fine food, nicely pre-sented and fairly priced. Two salads, an arugula and radicchio and the house GW Salad, were fresh as could be and scattered with a delectable assortment of fruits, nuts, and cheeses. One of us went on to pork tenderloin with smoked Gouda grits, while the other chose a hearty appetizer of osso buco ravioli with mushrooms and tomatoes. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From January 2011) Even through fogged glass on a dark, rainy evening, the trees and lights of Discovery Green made a picturesque setting for a weeknight downtown rendezvous. Skewers of smoked quail got dinner off to a good start, but we wished for more zip in the pineapple-bourbon dipping sauce. However, we loved the “ancient grains” (quinoa, farro, barley, and millet) and lemon yogurt sauce that accompanied the grilled chicken breast, even though it was, alas, overcooked. Our hefty cheeseburger with poblano chile strips and avocado totally satisfied. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From May 2011) Some interior remodeling has added bar space and made better use of the back dining room. Otherwise, not much changes at this neighborhood favorite known for its consistently good food. Not inexpensive, though, with an American Kobe beef burger with seared foie gras and truffled pommes frites going for $32. But we’ve got plenty of favorites, including the seared rare tuna, glazed with soy and ginger and served with wasabi mashed potatoes and roasted shiitakes; the big, plump black mussels in a savory curry and coconut milk sauce; and the dense chocolate cake. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From May 2011) Philippe Schmit’s posh venture has the look of a winner—dramatic blacks and whites, intricate sculptured lighting in the ceiling. And the menu shows touches of French, Italian, Mexican, and even Moroccan cuisine. Sherried onion soup had that rich broth that goes so well with gooey Gruyère. The hit entrée had to be “strewn lamb,” a meaty shank with a brown sauce sweetened with pumpkin, apricot, and dates. Rice paper–wrapped salmon proved less exciting, though an apple turnover with caramel atoned. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From January 2012)

Four of us shared several plates and comfortable conversation in this gracious dining room overlooking the George R. Brown Convention Center. Charcuterie, olives, and cheeses made a good start, along with a light salad of mesclun and roasted plums with a lemon dressing. Both a bianca pizza with mozzarella, roasted vegetables, and pesto and a Texas (and Texas-size) pork chop satisfied. Only a seafood risotto failed, with its bland flavor and mac and cheese texture. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From November 2011)

Every neighborhood deserves a place like this Heights hangout: light, airy surroundings; consistently good food; and the likelihood of running into friends. We opted for two seafood entrées, a halibut special with green-pea gnocchi and seared scallops atop crawfish-and-pancetta polenta. And yes, we wound up having coffee with old pals we spotted having dinner at the bar. 

Leave a Review

(From June 2011)

Chicken? Extraordinary? Indeed it is when cooked in a wood-burning oven till it's delicately charred on the outside and fork-tender on the inside. Braised pork shoulder, served with creamy polenta, is just as special. Start with the pretty array of baby beets with apples and goat cheese, and thin-sliced tuna drizzled with lemon vinegar. Turns out this casual wine bar, its spacious patios perfect for gathering with friends, dishes up impressive bites too. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review