Houston

(From May 2012)

Pork belly and innards have been “in” ingredients of late. Now, chef-owners Justin Yu and Karen Man (husband and wife) seem intent on giving vegetables a star turn—the name of their new restaurant denotes varietals of carrots, cabbage, and tomatoes. Snap peas poked their crisp green pods out of a clear soup of mushroom tea, while two kinds of carrots—purple and white—lined up alongside limey mashed avocado and heirloom broccoli. Many offerings are aimed at foodies (thin slices of purple kohlrabi pickled in goat’s whey, anyone?), but Man’s pretzel-dough rolls have an everyman (and -woman) appeal. As for main courses, fantastic brown-butter-drizzled oysters with leeks made good use of the Gulf’s bounty, and ox heart (the organ) seemed to proclaim, “Meat is in our repertoire too.” (It tasted like beef, only beefier, and
was very tender.) The tall, intimate room has a modern, shabby-chic appeal. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From June 2011) Two of us feasted mightily on the grilled platter of sizzling entraña (skirt steak), boneless flat ribs of beef, juicy sausage, grilled vegeta-bles, and potatoes. And we had leftovers. Undoubtedly the handsome space and warm service also had something to do with the positive experience—that and a nice bottle of Malbec. Before we finished we had made up our minds to return to check out the likes of grilled sweetbreads, chicken milanesa, and bacon-wrapped shrimp. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From May 2011) Tango and malbec are favored by Argentines, followed closely by . . . meat. Although we saw no one actually dancing at these spacious new digs bordering the Galleria, we were offered plenty of fine red wine and smoke-grilled cuts from various edible creatures. First, though, we shared flaky empanadas, one filled with ground beef, tomato, and olives and the other with ham and melty cheese. Then we dug into the traditional parrillada completa: buffalo tenderloin, beef short ribs, clove-spiked blood sausage, and lamb chops, along with eggplant escabeche and sautéed mushrooms and onions. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From May 2012)

We’re in a quandary over Triniti. It has cred, particularly in the person of chef Ryan Hildebrand, once with Textile. And its design is striking, with a soaring expanse of white accented by contemporary art and handsome wood chairs (though they could use cushions). Our dishes varied, though. We relished our crisp skin-on salmon with mushrooms, but the accompanying fishy-tasting whelks put us off. A guest raved over her striped bass with rutabaga, shallots, and red wine, but another guest claimed the pork dish, accented with various incarnations of pumpkin, yam, and cranberry, to be, surprisingly, nothing special. We all agreed on a beet and pear salad, though, a picture-perfect plate accented with rounds of goat cheese and fresh mint and oregano—and that Triniti has promise. Expect smallish portions. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From May 2012)

When a rock star chef like Chris Shepherd opens his own restaurant, people take notice. And Underbelly mostly delivers on big flavors
and up-to-the-minute, globally inspired ideas in a beautifully designed, bustling, neo-farmhouse setting. Shepherd’s menu, much locally sourced, starts with a cornmeal-breaded oyster appetizer in a slaw of cabbage and daikon tossed in a pungent nuoc-mam dressing, a great Western-Eastern mélange. It continues with a luscious carpaccio of Akaushi tenderloin (a Kobe cousin) sided by dabs of slow-cooked duck egg yolk and rather oily pickled vegetables (echoes of kimchi). Although our seared queen snapper filet arrived mushy on a pool of too-salty red beet purée, the golden tilefish with lovely artichoke hearts could not have been better. Next time, we’ll reserve dessert first: only two were left at 9 p.m., including a nice if ordinary chocolate tart with a jammy “pickled” strawberry layer. Bar.

Leave a Review

Photograph courtesy of Up

(From August 2011)

Aptly named, Up is situated atop Highland Village’s Cole Haan store. A wall of windows, ample use of wood, and tall booths (a little snug) make an elegant space. Only a lukewarm tuna filet failed to impress us. But we all raved over a classic and rich veal osso buco and the lobster ravioli in cream sauce. And we equally enjoyed sautéed chicken breast and leg with mustard sauce and a side of green beans with sun-dried tomato, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. 

Leave a Review

(From January 2011) The Selvaggio Group (Santa Monica and Las Vegas) has staked out its claim in Houston at the Hotel Derek, adding contemporary red touches to a formerly muted dining room and touting world-class Italian cuisine. We happily devoured a crudo array from the raw bar—ahi tuna with wasabi aioli, white tuna and passionfruit, pompano with lemon sauce, and green-apple-topped scallops—and gave high marks to a wild mushroom risotto and a simple entrée of sliced NY steak. Service, though, with one overworked waitress, failed to deliver. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From November 2011)

Judging by the weeknight crowd, we’re not the only ones who love this Heights cottage for its upscale comfort food and friendly atmosphere. The seafood soup in a sumptuous tomato-basil broth and tasty tilapia tacos with pineapple salsa were spot-on fresh (though we could have used a bit more fish in both). Fork-tender ribs were faultless, but the root beer braise permeated the creamy cheddar polenta with a weird vanilla flavor. The long banquette and tightly spaced tables make dining a communal meal. Beer & wine. 

Leave a Review

(From March 2011) This self-proclaimed “fancy icehouse,” run by the Zimmerman clan of La Colombe d’Or, is handsome and cozy, with walls papered in French posters and doors opening up to patio seating (how that translates to an “icehouse” is beyond us, but c’est la vie). We grazed on ceviche and warm Tabasco-spicy Louisiana oysters grilled on the half shell. The only downer was a chicken and sausage gumbo, with an oil slick marring the otherwise perfectly spiced brew. We also tried one of the “rich boy’s” sandwiches, whose high-toned ingredients (such as duck confit and merguez) distinguished them from the “poor boy’s” sandwiches (crawfish tails and, no joke, “boring chicken”). We chose the Casablanca and were rewarded with tender, slow-roasted lamb with arugula and spunky harissa aioli. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From January 2011)

Landmark Hospitality Group’s takeover of the restaurant in the Galleria Saks store included a welcome redo, and the resulting white-to-beige space, featuring a lighted rose sculpture on one wall, should suit savvy shoppers who crave a break from the chase. For lunch we chose the special, halibut with crab and saffron risotto, along with a salad of greens and cantaloupe, but we found the chicken and wild mushroom crepes in basil-chardonnay sauce even more special. This quiet haven beats nearby fast-food joints, and it’s only a few dollars more. Bar.

Leave a Review