Big Bend Region

(From May 2012)

Rome wanted to take all that was great in ancient Greece and make it its own. In the same spirit, this Italian pizzeria offers a delectable Greek gyro. Even inside the thick pita, waxed paper, and foil, the seasoned lamb shavings were almost too hot to taste at first. But, oh, that dill-flecked tzatziki, creamy and piquant! Nearby conversations about college classes and the relative merits of different saddles fade away as you’re transported to some place in the Mediterranean, or maybe just Houston—but definitely not West Texas. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From July 2011)

There’s a Wild West twist to the names, but don’t let that fool you: The ingredients are very familiar. We found Grumpy’s Blue Special unusually grumpy, as it was missing most of its pungent lumps of cheese. But there is, of course, the Big Bend, with fajita chicken and anaheim peppers, which is hard to beat. Sit at the bar or order a cold one at the picnic tables. Buon appetito, y’all. Beer & wine.

Leave a Review

(From April 2012)

While the regular assortment of Tex-Mex is sure to please, interesting items can appear chalked on a board in this other-side-of-the-tracks cafe. Even if you have your heart set on, say, chicken mole or tilapia borracha, you wouldn’t want to miss a warming bowl of caldo de res; the hearty beef stock bathes chunks of corn on the cob, beef on the bone, and squash. A dollop of salsa, a squeeze of lime, and fresh corn tortillas make a blissful meal.

Leave a Review

Alex Marks

(From January 2011)

Maiya’s This urbane, high-desert refuge from the ordinary remains interesting and consistent, with smart menu tweaks to engage the regulars. Hearty beef and salmon entrées pleased us, but the scene stealer was a simple white bean salad in a balanced dressing of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and basil. A rich filet of wild coho came topped with an equally rich pistachio butter. Two riches make a wrong, right? Not in this case. The grilled tenderloin was also near perfect, but the accompanying raw beet and citrus salad was puckery sour. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From December 2010) Multitasking as coffee shop, restaurant, and used-book store, Nel’s recalls the slow pace of long-gone rural cafes. Here, the chatty, mostly local crowd comes for sandwiches and handcrafted quiches and pastries. Not to be missed are the seasonal soups and the sandwiches of thin-sliced roast beef or turkey on wheat buns. The menu superstar is the perfectly cooked migas, as authentic and flavorful as any from an urban Mexican restaurant. Note: Busy periods can overwhelm the kitchen.

Leave a Review

(From January 2012)

You could be forgiven for thinking Padre’s is just a funky music bar, since the first thing you see is a stage sprouting mike stands. But it is definitely worth dropping in for the bar food, which nods to both sides of the Sabine River with Cajun gumbos and Frito pie. We decided to sample the vegetarian curry, a really good combo of carrots, peppers, celery, and squash in coconut milk over rice. The menu called it moderately spicy—we shudder to contemplate very spicy.

Leave a Review

(From November 2011)

The window of opportunity to eat here is small, but it’s worth it. First good impression: glasses of excellent tea, accompanied by delicious aromas from the platters on your table. Our chiles rellenos enclosed melted yellow cheese in a hotter-than-usual green chile and sported a fantastic crust. Poco also makes a mean CFS, but our favorite this time was the old-fashioned hamburger. A franchise joint next door would go broke. 

Leave a Review

(From May 2012)

Reata strives to please groups, whether business lunches or family dinners. And there’s something for everyone, whether they be lovers
of steak or game, Mexican or American, large plates or small. Usually the kitchen performs well, though a recent grilled chicken breast with mango chutney somehow managed to be both very moist and a bit tough, prompting covetous looks toward nearby plates of burgers and tacos. The view from the dark-wood
interior into the vine-draped patio assures that summer has almost arrived. Bar.

Leave a Review

(From January 2012)

When you just want something light—smoothies, salads, sandwiches—this hole-in-the-wall should be your first choice. The lovely longitudinal patio and inside aisles are one-way only, but the ultra-trim Marfa customers fit right in (literally), crowding Squeeze Marfa’s postage stamp–size tables with yogurt parfaits, fresh fruit, granola, and waffles.

Leave a Review

(From April 2012)

They have always rocked chipotle sauces here. Since said sauces combine well with items of a porcine nature, give in to glistening medallions or pork chops. On our last visit we augmented our repast with a couple of margaritas, live music, and spirited local chatter. Unfortunately our friend’s entrée, grilled salmon, came out dry, but it was redeemed by dill mashed potatoes and sautéed veggies, which were a cut above the usual. Bar (opens at 5).

Leave a Review