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BRANCH WATER TAVERN
510 Shepherd Dr, at Gibson (713-863-7777) Open Sun & Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11–4. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Houston
| American |

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(From May 2012) Lots of things work at this Heights restaurant and publike bar: warm wood and brick accents, flattering lighting, a comfortable atmosphere, and, most important, imaginative food that tastes great. Case in point: slow-cooked deboned beef short ribs, fetchingly arranged on braised kale and rich mushroom risotto. Equally delicious: seared diver scallops and butternut squash ravioli with crispy prosciutto and plate-lickin’-good brown butter sauce. We were also impressed with our capable server, whose wine suggestions proved spot-on. Bar.
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DOLCE VITA
500 Westheimer Rd (713-520-8222) Open Sun & Tue-Thur noon-10, Fri & Sat noon-11. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Italian |

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(From May 2012) Spaghetti cacio e pepe-a supremely simple and stylish dish-shows off what Dolce Vita does so well. But we do relish the occasional surprise-whoknew that a pile of room temperature cauliflower adorned with red grapes, pine nuts, and a light vinaigrette could taste so good? Other highlights included truffled toast, gnocchi, and an arugula, pear, and cheese pizza. Funky and fun setting in an old house. Bar.
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DOUGH PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA
Blanco Junction shopping center, 6989 Blanco Rd, at Loop 410, southwest corner (210-979-6565) Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10, Sun 5-9. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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San Antonio
| Pizza |

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(From May 2012) This busy, energetic place is expanding into an adjoining space, but until that’s done, be prepared to wait for a table during the lunch rush. And though pizza is still the main attraction, the menu is expanding as well, into items like a memorable sausage, cheese, and vegetable antipasti plate; several made-right-there cheeses; wonderful salads; and fresh desserts. We lunched on an arugula and prosciutto pizza, whose flavors ricocheted off each other delightfully, and on a simple but well-done margherita pizza. Beer & wine.
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FEARING’S
Ritz-Carlton, 2121 McKinney Ave (214-922-4848) Breakfast 7 days 6–10:30. Lunch Mon–Fri 10:30–2:30, Sat & Sun 11–3 (afternoon tea Sat 3–5). Dinner Mon–Thur 6–10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30–11, Sun 6–10. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
Dallas
| Eclectic |

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(From March 2012) What a fusion of color, flavor, and texture: the Farm to Fearing’s Vegetable Salad was a heap of hand-picked greens, smoked pecans, and Paula’s goat cheese croquettes, all judiciously slicked with sherry vinaigrette. The barbecue-spiced Chatham cod, plated up with Dean’s Cowboy Shrimp Enchilada Casserole and a mango–black bean salad, would have been sublime if not for the extremely spicy rub on the fish. Bar.
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THE FRENCH ROOM
Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce (214-742-8200) Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Dallas
| American |

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(From June 2012) From the moment the French country–style pâté with minced artichoke and truffle and a drizzle of coconut champagne vinaigrette arrived at the table, we knew we’d done the right thing in choosing the tasting menu. Next came fork-tender sous-vide rabbit loin on a bed of green garlic and sweet-bread ragout. Then delicate European turbot nestled atop beluga lentil purée and crème fraîche topped with a single crispy wild boar raviolo. Gouda aged for four years and a seasonal fruit tart ushered in the final stages of a meal we hated to say goodbye to. The sweet ending: a blood orange semi-freddo with meringue crumbles. Save your dollars and enjoy an evening at this loveliest of rooms. Bar.
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GAIDO’S
3800 Seawall Blvd (409-762-9625) Open Sun-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Galveston
| Seafood |

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(From May 2012) This resolutely old-fashioned landmark's creamy shrimp and grits made us want to whistle "Dixie," and the shrimp bisque was a silken delight. We barely had room for a small but sprightly arugula salad but vowed to return for the light and flaky red snapper filet and a piece of our favorite dessert, the pecan crunch. Bar.
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HUDSON’S ON THE BEND
3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369) Dinner Sun & Mon 6–9, Tue–Thur 6–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Reservations recommended. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
Austin
| Eclectic |

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(From June 2011) We quite like the cool, comfortable ambience; a mix between sleek and cozy at this small stone cottage near Lake Travis, and the artwork on the walls and neat display of wine bottles provide fodder for lively conversation. A masterful salad of Bibb let-tuce topped with strawberries, honey-tossed pistachios, and creamy feta warmed our in-sides, but our entrées sent us to a new level. The pecan-crusted snapper with lemon beurre blanc over cornbread pudding wowed (a delightful mix of textures), but we were un-abashedly envious of our companion's velvety espresso-rubbed smoked elk back strap topped with Gulf Coast crab and a chipotle-lime “beer blanc.†Warm cherry flambé atop home-made vanilla bean ice cream proved the per-fect ending. Bar.
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IL SOGNO
Pearl complex, 200 E. Grayson (210-223-3900) Breakfast Tue–Fri 7:30–10, Sat 8:30–10. Lunch Tue–Sun 11:30–2. Dinner Tue–Sat 6–9:30, Sun 6–9. Closed Mon. Reservations dinner only. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
San Antonio
| Italian |

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(From May 2012) The glow of wine bottle chandeliers overhead, the clink of glasses all around, the crackle of twig-thin bread sticks, an elegant service of citrus and cucumber for your water—from the start, Il Sogno is a feast for the senses. Something new is always on hand, like an inspired margherita pizza generously dressed with shreds of tender oxtail or an antipasto dish of small cubes of potato and octopus. Entrées are generous enough to share, especially if you choose one of the exemplary braised meats, such as the fork-tender beef short ribs, off the bone and served with parsnips and tiny potatoes. Chef Andrew Weissman’s approach is straightforward; his ingredients’ inherent flavor, texture, and color are gently enhanced rather than embellished. Beer & wine.
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LA CONDESA
400 W. 2nd (512-499-0300) Open Mon–Wed 5–10, Thur & Fri 5–11, Sat 11–11, Sun 11–10. Brunch Sat & Sun 11–2. Dinner reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Austin
| Mexican |

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(From January 2011) Even a snack like a huarache, a masa tart topped with chihuahua cheese, mushrooms, truffle oil, and huitlacoche (an earthy corn fungus), had layers of flavor. And imagine what the kitchen does with a dish like tacos arábicos, filled with spice-rubbed venison swabbed with two sauces: a cooling tzatziki-type yogurt and a spunky chipotle blend (these tacos were served at the James Beard House in New York recently). The Oaxacan black mole (with both sliced breast of duck and confit of leg) is emblematic of the avant-garde Mexican cuisine that is Condesa’s signature. For fun, though, Mexican-street-fair corn on the cob has been added to the menu; it’s not all serious here. Bar.
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LIBERTY BAR
1111 S. Alamo (210-227-1187) Open Sun–Thur 7–10:30 & 11–9:30, Fri & Sat 7–10:30 & 11–midnight. Brunch Sat & Sun 10:30–1:45. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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San Antonio
| American / Home Cooking |

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(From May 2012) Depending on the time of day or night, you may find service upstairs, downstairs, and even outside this red-brick former convent. But wherever you’re seated, there’s something comfortable, familiar, and familial about the Lib. We continue to delight (after several decades of experience) in the edited simplicity, careful attention to flavor and texture, and all-round dependability of the kitchen and staff and their “serious food.” We started our lunch (after a hearty slice of the house bread) with grilled slices of potato and garlic sauce, then launched into a special of mole chicken enchiladas, rich and perfectly balanced with white Mexican rice and black beans. From the “basics” menu, roast lamb topped with arugula on whole-wheat toast exemplifies the approach. Bar.
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