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COPPA
5555 Washington Ave (713-426-4260) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 10–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Reservations recommended. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Italian |
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(From April 2012) Although we usually relish our meals at this bustling, dimly lit Washington Avenue hot spot, our recent dinner was a bit erratic. Blistered Neapolitan pizza with addictively crispy edges was overwhelemed by a sweet tomato sauce. That same sweetness marred foglie di carciofo, coin-size disks of artichoke-flavored pasta with delicious crumbled lamb sausage, eggplant, and roasted peppers. Best of show: the precisely cooked and beautifully represented redfish and roasted vegetables in parchment paper. Bar.
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DA MARCO
1520 Westheimer Rd, at Ridgewood (713-807-8857) Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Houston
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(From June 2012) It appears to be just a modest house in Montrose, but it’s as close to truly regional Italian cooking as you’ll find in town. Understated surroundings and expert service put the emphasis on fine food and drink. Recent selections included shaved celery with thin slices of beet and pecorino; sweet corn ravioli surrounded by lobster claw meat; and roasted whole branzino, filleted and served alongside braised fennel and rosemary potatoes. It’s well worth the splurge. Extensive Italian wine list. Bar.
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DOLCE VITA
500 Westheimer Rd (713-520-8222) Open Sun & Tue-Thur noon-10, Fri & Sat noon-11. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Houston
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(From May 2012) Spaghetti cacio e pepe-a supremely simple and stylish dish-shows off what Dolce Vita does so well. But we do relish the occasional surprise-whoknew that a pile of room temperature cauliflower adorned with red grapes, pine nuts, and a light vinaigrette could taste so good? Other highlights included truffled toast, gnocchi, and an arugula, pear, and cheese pizza. Funky and fun setting in an old house. Bar.
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DOUGH PIZZERIA NAPOLETENA
11909 Preston Rd. (972-788-4600) Open Tue-Sat 11am-10pm. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Dallas
| Italian |
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(From January 2012) If you're a fan of Neapolitan-style pizza, this no-frills San Antonio import should be your next stop. We made a fine Italian lunch out of spiedini of warm mozzerella wrapped in prosciutto di Parma and a pizza swathed with fontina cheese, oak-roasted mushrooms, and carmelized onion. The thereal polenta cake was delectable, as were the Nutella panini, and the silky panna cotta ringed with balsamic sauce and macerated berries was dessert indulgence to the hilt. Bar.
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FIRESIDE PIES
5717 Legacy Dr, at Dallas North Tollway, Plano (972-398-2700) Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5-11. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Plano
| Italian |
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(From March 2012) With an authentic forno crackling away, the Fireside guys serve artisan pizzas with thin, crisp crusts and unique toppings. The Peta Pie, with Montchevré goat cheese, slices of balsamic-marinated portobello, arugula, roasted red peppers, piñon nuts, and a charred-tomato vinaigrette drizzled around the edge, was magnificent; we rounded our meal out with a Fireside Cheese Salad of mixed greens, chopped hearts of romaine, tomatoes, and a blend of four cheeses. Bar.
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GIO’S CAFE & NEW YORK STYLE DELI
12817 Preston Rd (972-387-4467) Open Sun & Mon 7–3, Thur–Sat 7–9 map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Dallas
| Italian |
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(From July 2011) As far as we’re concerned, “Café” could be left out of the name, because the food here is mainly deli. Never would we have guessed that stuffed cabbage could be such a delight: The tender leaves were crammed with beef and rice and served in a tomato broth studded with raisins, onions, and celery. The beef stroganoff was surprisingly bland, but we did like the flavorful side of carrot and zucchini slivers. The cheesecake seems to be the dessert of choice, but chocolate cannoli come in a close second.
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GOODFELLA’S
Tuscany Park, 3350 Dowlen Rd (409-861-2500) Open Mon–Thur 11:30–9, Fri & Sat 3:30–11, Sun 10:30–9:30 web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Beaumont
| Italian / Middle Eastern |
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(From May 2012) Applying simple logic we deduced that if lunch here was as tasty as dinner then we were in for a treat. And the noontime menu of salads and sandwiches proved us right. We loved the vegetable wrap with roasted red peppers and grilled portobello mushrooms and the house burger with a smattering of fennel-spiked Italian sausage blended into the meat. On the lighter side, a couscous-based salad with fresh feta, artichoke hearts, zesty peppers, and kalamata olives also received raves. Bar.
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GRAPPINO DI NINO
2817 W. Dallas (713-528-7002) Dinner Mon–Thur 4:30–10, Fri & Sat 4:30–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Houston
| Italian |
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(From March 2011) Cheers to the Vincent Mandola family for featuring a small-plates menu and a wide range of Italian libations in their West Dallas backyard patio-bar, one of our town’s most pleasant alfresco spots. A friendly waiter said we’d love the warm arancine (fried risotto balls with a core of melting cheese), and he was right. Same for the crab claws in garlic-lemon butter. The Mini Vinnie, a portion of veal par-migiano, plus mezzaluna pasta stuffed with chicken and ricotta, completed our meal—save for a digestivo, of course. Grappa, anyone? Bar.
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IL SOGNO
Pearl complex, 200 E. Grayson (210-223-3900) Breakfast Tue–Fri 7:30–10, Sat 8:30–10. Lunch Tue–Sun 11:30–2. Dinner Tue–Sat 6–9:30, Sun 6–9. Closed Mon. Reservations dinner only. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
San Antonio
| Italian |

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(From May 2012) The glow of wine bottle chandeliers overhead, the clink of glasses all around, the crackle of twig-thin bread sticks, an elegant service of citrus and cucumber for your water—from the start, Il Sogno is a feast for the senses. Something new is always on hand, like an inspired margherita pizza generously dressed with shreds of tender oxtail or an antipasto dish of small cubes of potato and octopus. Entrées are generous enough to share, especially if you choose one of the exemplary braised meats, such as the fork-tender beef short ribs, off the bone and served with parsnips and tiny potatoes. Chef Andrew Weissman’s approach is straightforward; his ingredients’ inherent flavor, texture, and color are gently enhanced rather than embellished. Beer & wine.
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LA PIAZZA
2930 Bledsoe (817-334-0000) Open Tue-Sat 10-4. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Fort Worth
| Italian |
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(From June 2012) Vito Ciraci and his crew are back, ensconced in a new location that’s as cozy as it is elegant (it is a place to dress up a bit). The most formal area has subdued lighting and lovely art, while the space surrounding the bar is a bit more casual. Exactly the same are the flawless service and the kitchen’s willingness to accommodate any request. We delighted in our small Caesar (complete with anchovies), moist halibut livornese sauced with tomatoes and basil, and linguine containing all manner of seafood in an excellent marinara. Bar.
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