(From March 2012)

Talk about a bottle rocket. Young Matt McCallister’s career has certainly taken off like one. After learning the ropes at Stephan Pyles, he is now consulting chef at this eclectic, mostly Mediterranean spot in Oak Cliff. The contemporary remodeled bungalow is dishing up starters like ethereal fried baby artichokes and itsy Barnstable oysters in an elderflower-vinegar mignonette. Some complicated efforts, like the Italian starter “rabbit in porchetta” (think confit of rabbit wrapped and rolled in its own lean meat), come off attractive but bland. Not so the nearly airborne gnocchi in Gorgonzola-walnut sauce (a tad pasty), nor the top two of several entrées sampled, seared, hay-smoked scallops and meltingly tender pork jowl on soft, confit-enriched polenta. Bar.

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(From March 2011) This sultry Victorian dining room, dressed in tones of red and chocolate brown, offers two French menus, one of “traditional” cuisine and one of “new wave” items. Both harbor true gems, like coq au vin from the former (skimpy with the sauce but on target in flavor) and scallops in a coconut-laced curry sauce from the latter. Unfortunately, duck confit was dry, with little of confit’s traditional rich-ness, but an appetizer of fresh raw oysters with a red wine vinegar dipping sauce started us off well, and a Grand Marnier soufflé for two, complete with chocolate sauce, finished the meal with a touch of sybaritic elegance. Live music Fri & Sat. Bar.

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(From February 2012)

The Fig Tree, with its jewel box setting, is not quite the special-occasions-only outing it once was. But the ambience, service, and cuisine are every bit as delightful. Chef Byron Bergeron designs a seasonal menu with the best of them, featuring such treasures as fall-off-the-bone braised lamb over polenta and wild grilled Tasmanian salmon with a spicy couscous. Even the appetizers find a balance between flashy and classic; the wedge salad here is tender Bibb lettuce with Roquefort and lardons. Bar.

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(From March 2011) Enter one door: quaint patisserie and cafe. Enter the other: handsome French bistro. In fine weather, the sweeping bar opens to the side terrace for a truly not-in-Houston feel. We lunched on stone-oven flatbread pizza, well paired with a creamy roasted pepper and tomato soup. A niçoise salad was impressively upscale with seared ahi tuna, traditional haricots verts, and a quail egg. Profiteroles made a decadent end. A dinner visit was surprisingly ordinary, though, with a dry Mediterranean chicken breast and a serving of garlicky, buttery shrimp that, while lovely, tasted less than pristine. A generous steak frites was the evening’s best bargain, at $23. (Here’s a tip on finding the place—it’s actually on Town and Country Blvd, between Queensbury and CityCentre Way.) Bar.

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(From November 2011)

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(From May 2012)

The atmosphere is less formal than that of its Alamo Heights sibling (especially if you eat in “Freddy’s Bar”), but you’ll still find the excellent, French-accented Asian and European dishes that owner Frederick Costa is known for. Looking for something healthy? Mahimahi (or another fresh catch) comes in a light saffron broth, along with a veritable alphabet soup of vegetables, from artichoke to zucchini. Crisp-fried, rice-paper-wrapped spring rolls, served with fresh mint, cilantro, and a spicy dipping sauce, are a treat any time of day. Pizzas, too, with imaginative combinations: the duck, shiitake mushroom, and creamy leek is a favorite. Bar.

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Andrew Lo

(From June 2011) We huddled at the bar at this ultra-hip hangout in East Austin, admiring the eclec-tic French bistro ambience (the luscious red walls and dainty chandeliers provide just the right touch). Three empty tables held our attention as we waited and waited—and then were finally seated at one of them. A little foreshadowing, perhaps? Mussels in a white-wine broth started us off—good but not the best we’ve ever had (their “fishy” aroma was somewhat unsettling). When our en-trées finally arrived (45 minutes is a long time), our companion devoured his delicious snapper in beurre blanc with haricots verts. Our pork chop grilled in a thyme reduction (oh, the butter!) came with the most splen-did potatoes au gratin—and redemption. Bar.

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(From June 2012)

This small French restaurant was quite new when we dropped by, but the airy, casual space (once an adult video shop, we hear) on inner Westheimer made a fine backdrop for some promising fare. Raves went to a terrific paysanne salade, juicy, tender chicken livers on greens with shallot vinaigrette; a plump half chicken au jus weighing down haricots verts; and sweet mussels in a luscious broth. Less exciting were skimpy Canadian oysters, pedestrian chicken-liver mousse, and pulled chicken with risotto and Brie. Inconsistency was a problem—on one visit the risotto was excellent and creamy, on another undercooked (not even approaching al dente). Service is a work in progress. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

What a delightful find, in South Austin but far from the SoCo hipster scene. In this quaint cottage (exuding just the right amount of country French atmosphere), we found ourselves struggling to choose from the tempting array in the deli case. We finally settled on a Hope Farmers Market Salad (fresh and crisp) and a scrumptious tomato-and-cheese tart, which sated our appetite but didn’t leave us stuffed. Thank goodness our willpower failed at the prospect of a lemon curd tart. 

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(From June 2011) With good reason, Outer Loopers consider this French gem a star. Seated in the sleek dining room, with its portrait of a large Brahman bull, we fell under a spell while downing garlicky baked escargots, coquilles Saint-Jacques with fennel butter, and skewered quail with figs. How long since we’d had duck à l’orange? Chef David Denis’s version was perfect: a boned leg confit and caramelized breast with Grand Marnier sauce, alongside squash risotto and asparagus fricas-see. Bar.

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