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NANA
Hilton Anatole hotel, 2201 Stemmons Fwy (I-35) at Market Center Blvd
(214-761-7470)
Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ |  add to library |
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$$$-$$$$ |
Eclectic |
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(From January 2012) Chef Anthony Bombaci's creative juices are flowing, and we were wowed by what's coming out of his kitchen. A seven-course tasting menu brought such delights such as a Chilean languostine ceviche with a cilantro sorbet, a decadent wild-mushroom bisque with a flourish of carmelized onion streusel on top, and a show-stopping chocolate cake with peanut butter gelato and curry whipped cream. The city views from this 27th floor room are spectacular, and the service is top-notch. Bar. |
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NOVA
1417 W. Davis
(214-484-7123)
Dinner 7 days 4 p.m.–2 a.m.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Eclectic |
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(From December 2010) The location is the same; the chef, Kelly Hightower, is the same; and the decor, a bit lighter in tones, is much the same. But Kavala has become Nova, a self-proclaimed Oak Cliff gastropub. We were happy to find Hightower’s great roasted garlic hummus still on the menu, but the rest of our meal had a few kinks. We would have loved the Blow Torch salmon—skewered fish with slashes of yuzu-miso glaze—if only a bit of crunch had been added to the dish. Angel hair pasta with crab and asparagus tips was dominated by the last ingredient (though still quite tasty), and the marinated New York strip steak, Vietnamese style, was a bit chewy. The wine list is short and quirky. Bar. |
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OLIVELLA’S
3406 McFarlin Blvd, at Hillcrest
(214-528-7070)
Open 7 days 11:45–10.
map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Pizza /
Eclectic |
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(From June 2011) Four—count ’em—crispy micro-thin-crusted Neapolitan pizzas made our group very happy: the Regina Margherita, with its blend of cheeses, tomato sauce, and basil; the Snow White, with ricotta, mozzarella, oregano, garlic, and EVOO; the Amante Della Carne, with tomato sauce, house-made mozzarella, sausage, ground beef, ham, pepperoni, and onion; and the Quattro Stagioni, with tomato sauce, mozzarella, artichokes, soppressata, anchovies, mushrooms, and garlic (that one was our fave). There are pastas and Italian sandwiches for those not in the mood for pizza. Beer & wine. |
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ONE ART
1722 Routh Street
(469-600-4660)
Open Tue-Sat at 6:30 & 8. Closed Sun and Mon. Reservations required.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$ |
Eclectic |
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(From February 2012) The cash cow at this two-sided occupant of One Arts Plaza is chef John Tesar’s casual Commissary, a bistro and burger bar. But his heart is at the chef’s table, in a tall, glass-walled room designated One Art. Recently the daily-changing menu explored rustic, assertive ingredients in a great mash-up of hand-made papardelle, local ricotta, mortadella, perfect sautéed chicken livers, and a poached duck egg. That dish’s polar opposite, a prim filet of nicely cooked line-caught cod (white) on a celery root–almond purée (white) under almond milk–honey foam (you guessed it), explored soft textures and subtle flavors in a smart but risky experiment that ultimately put the diner to sleep. Still, Tesar’s masterful technique shone in a sybaritic gratin of lump crab with herbed hollandaise. Beer & wine. |
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PECAN LODGE CATERING
Shed 2, Dallas Farmers Market, 1010 S. Pearl Expy
(214-748-8900 or 214-274-6965)
Open Thur & Fri 11–3, Sat & Sun 9–3 (breakfast 9–noon). Closed Mon–Wed.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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Barbecue /
Eclectic |
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Photograph by Daniel Vaughn |
(From June 2011) It is indeed a catering business, but Pecan Lodge is also a small restaurant located in the heart of the farmers market, the better to source its produce. We chose a stick-to-the-ribs, decidedly unvegetably plate of mes-quite-smoked brisket and ribs with a side of stellar fried okra. And though there wasn’t much room for dessert, we gave our inner child a treat with the Sweet Lupita: a spec-tacular sculpture of fried tortilla strips drizzled with honey, powdered sugar, crushed pecan, and . . . fairy dust, an edible sparkly topping! |
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SOHO FOOD AND JAZZ
5290 Belt Line Rd, at Montfort
(972-490-8686)
Open Mon–Thur 3pm–11:30pm, Fri 3pm–1:30am, Sat 5pm–1:30am, Sun 5pm–11:30pm.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
New American /
Eclectic |
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(From November 2011) The vine-covered tree growing in the middle of the enclosed patio lends a tropical air to this Addison place, with its compact bar, narrow room, and dark concrete floors. The food is terrific, especially the grilled New Zealand lamb loin with a thick Shiraz reduction; a potato soufflé and steamed asparagus rounded out this impressive entrée. Tangerine crème brûlée arrived with two sauces, orange blossom and Grand Marnier crème anglaise, and it was over the top in richness. Bar. |
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VELVET TACO
3012 Henderson Ave.
(214-823-8358)
Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-4 a.m.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Mexican /
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(From February 2012) This is not your padre’s taquería. Even though about half the tacos have a semi-Mexican identity (roasted chicken with queso fresco), the rest take the concept and go crazy with it. Anybody for Hawaiian-style chopped raw ahi tuna with avocado, radish, and ginger-soy vinaigrette? It’s totally delish. How about cornmeal-crusted oysters with napa cabbage and fennel slaw drizzled with smoked-chile butter? Amazing. Homeboys will want the brilliant Texas burger taco, with yellow cheese, dill pickles, and applewood-smoked bacon. Definitely save room for elote (roasted corn, off the cob, mixed with crema and lime). The converted Church’s chicken outlet has been retooled with clever industrial-rustic details, including folded-metal taco holders. Beer & wine. |
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WOODLANDS AMERICAN GRILL
6073 Forest Ln, at Preston
(972-239-2024)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 10–11, Sun 10–9.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Eclectic |
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(From March 2011) Someone was channeling Frank Lloyd Wright in the creation of this space; we love the linear stone and natural flow of space. And, happily, the food is the equal of the design. At lunch, we’re taken with the Cobalt sandwich, the name an acronym for its components: grilled chicken, onion, bacon aioli, avocado, lettuce, and tomato. The side of cranberry-almond couscous made this light entrée especially tasty. Certainly enough for sharing was a slice of apple-cranberry cobbler with two scoops of Tahitian vanilla ice cream. For those who are watching their waistlines, there are even Cooper Aerobics–approved entrées. For those who are watching their pocketbooks (and who isn’t?), happy hour boasts many bargains, both in libations and munchies. We’re eager to come back for dinner. Bar. |
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