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ONE ART
1722 Routh Street
(469-600-4660)
Open Tue-Sat at 6:30 & 8. Closed Sun and Mon. Reservations required.
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$$$ |
Eclectic |
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(From February 2012) The cash cow at this two-sided occupant of One Arts Plaza is chef John Tesar’s casual Commissary, a bistro and burger bar. But his heart is at the chef’s table, in a tall, glass-walled room designated One Art. Recently the daily-changing menu explored rustic, assertive ingredients in a great mash-up of hand-made papardelle, local ricotta, mortadella, perfect sautéed chicken livers, and a poached duck egg. That dish’s polar opposite, a prim filet of nicely cooked line-caught cod (white) on a celery root–almond purée (white) under almond milk–honey foam (you guessed it), explored soft textures and subtle flavors in a smart but risky experiment that ultimately put the diner to sleep. Still, Tesar’s masterful technique shone in a sybaritic gratin of lump crab with herbed hollandaise. Beer & wine. |
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WOODLANDS AMERICAN GRILL
6073 Forest Ln, at Preston
(972-239-2024)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 10–11, Sun 10–9.
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Eclectic |
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(From March 2011) Someone was channeling Frank Lloyd Wright in the creation of this space; we love the linear stone and natural flow of space. And, happily, the food is the equal of the design. At lunch, we’re taken with the Cobalt sandwich, the name an acronym for its components: grilled chicken, onion, bacon aioli, avocado, lettuce, and tomato. The side of cranberry-almond couscous made this light entrée especially tasty. Certainly enough for sharing was a slice of apple-cranberry cobbler with two scoops of Tahitian vanilla ice cream. For those who are watching their waistlines, there are even Cooper Aerobics–approved entrées. For those who are watching their pocketbooks (and who isn’t?), happy hour boasts many bargains, both in libations and munchies. We’re eager to come back for dinner. Bar. |
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DRAGONFLY
Hotel ZaZa, 2332 Leonard, just off McKinney Ave
(214-468-8399)
Open Sun–Wed 7 a.m.–10 p.m., Thur–Sat 7–11.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Mediterranean /
Eclectic |
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(From June 2011) There’s a new chef from across the Trinity River: Dan Landsberg, formerly of Tillman’s, has brought a New American approach to Dragonfly’s menu, which has resulted in some lovely dishes. Crusted with thyme leaves and minced garlic, our Bay of Fundy salmon was cooked to perfection and plated with toasted orzo and baby spinach. Dessert of a small chocolate bundt cake filled with peanut butter mousse and drizzled with fudge sauce and crushed peanuts was top of the world. We like the new, more serene black and white decor and the lovely cluster of pendant lighting in the center of the room. The bar scene is as lively as always. Bar. |
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VELVET TACO
3012 Henderson Ave.
(214-823-8358)
Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-4 a.m.
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Mexican /
Eclectic |
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(From February 2012) This is not your padre’s taquería. Even though about half the tacos have a semi-Mexican identity (roasted chicken with queso fresco), the rest take the concept and go crazy with it. Anybody for Hawaiian-style chopped raw ahi tuna with avocado, radish, and ginger-soy vinaigrette? It’s totally delish. How about cornmeal-crusted oysters with napa cabbage and fennel slaw drizzled with smoked-chile butter? Amazing. Homeboys will want the brilliant Texas burger taco, with yellow cheese, dill pickles, and applewood-smoked bacon. Definitely save room for elote (roasted corn, off the cob, mixed with crema and lime). The converted Church’s chicken outlet has been retooled with clever industrial-rustic details, including folded-metal taco holders. Beer & wine. |
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ABACUS
4511 McKinney Ave
(214-559-3111)
Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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New American /
Eclectic |
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(From December 2010) Looking like a small, colorful Tower of Pisa were stacked rounds of buffalo mozzarella brushed with pesto, slices of yellow and red heirloom tomatoes, and a sprinkling of tiny sourdough croutons and water-cress. A pyramid of truffle whipped potatoes and baby vegetables came parked beside a hefty hunk of wood-roasted beef tenderloin napped with a velvety red-wine butter. If you’ve never had sage ice cream—who has?—it’s a treat, especially paired with a blackberry crisp, as it is here. Note the sizzling bar scene, where everyone seems to be celebrating some sort of corporate coup. Bar. |
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THE MANSION
Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd
(214-559-2100)
Breakfast Mon–Fri 6:30–10:30, Sat & Sun 7–10:30. Dinner Mon–Thur 6–10, Fri & Sat 6–10:30, Sun 6–9:30. Brunch Sun 11:30–2. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$$$ |
New American /
Eclectic |
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(From January 2012) The new four-course vegetarian tasting menu (only offered within the past few months) has every bit the skill and imagination of Bruno Davaillon’s regular repertoire. Delicate greens embellished with dates, pine nuts, shaved Manchego, and a subtle lemon dressing whetted our appetites, as did roasted baby beets with spring onions and zippy horseradish. For our main courses, we chose tender potato gnocchi with wild mushrooms, asparagus tips, and fresh spinach and Israeli couscous with hazelnuts, crunchy cauliflower, and a slice of grilled mango. What really knocked our socks off, though, was dessert: a hollow sphere of white chocolate, coated with raspberry purée, whose top lifted off to reveal vanilla cheesecake inside, crowned with margarita sorbet |
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SOHO FOOD AND JAZZ
5290 Belt Line Rd, at Montfort
(972-490-8686)
Open Mon–Thur 3pm–11:30pm, Fri 3pm–1:30am, Sat 5pm–1:30am, Sun 5pm–11:30pm.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
New American /
Eclectic |
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(From November 2011) The vine-covered tree growing in the middle of the enclosed patio lends a tropical air to this Addison place, with its compact bar, narrow room, and dark concrete floors. The food is terrific, especially the grilled New Zealand lamb loin with a thick Shiraz reduction; a potato soufflé and steamed asparagus rounded out this impressive entrée. Tangerine crème brûlée arrived with two sauces, orange blossom and Grand Marnier crème anglaise, and it was over the top in richness. Bar. |
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OLIVELLA’S
3406 McFarlin Blvd, at Hillcrest
(214-528-7070)
Open 7 days 11:45–10.
map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$-$$ |
Pizza /
Eclectic |
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(From June 2011) Four—count ’em—crispy micro-thin-crusted Neapolitan pizzas made our group very happy: the Regina Margherita, with its blend of cheeses, tomato sauce, and basil; the Snow White, with ricotta, mozzarella, oregano, garlic, and EVOO; the Amante Della Carne, with tomato sauce, house-made mozzarella, sausage, ground beef, ham, pepperoni, and onion; and the Quattro Stagioni, with tomato sauce, mozzarella, artichokes, soppressata, anchovies, mushrooms, and garlic (that one was our fave). There are pastas and Italian sandwiches for those not in the mood for pizza. Beer & wine. |
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