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BELLA ON THE RIVER

106 River Walk, just off St. Mary’s near Commerce
(210-404-2355)
D Mon–Sat.
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$$–$$$

San Antonio

Mediterranean

(From January 2013)

Small and noisy from live music, chatter, and rock walls, this Mediterranean jewel is delightful in almost every other way. The bread, served with roasted garlic, rosemary, and olive oil, evokes Italy, and excellent starters include “pork y polenta,” a small plate of pork stew with fried polenta, and the spiced cured salmon with crème fraîche and a potato galette whose crisp texture perfectly complements the fish. Grilled salmon with dill sauce succeeded (though we found the astringent cucumber slaw atop it off-putting). The whole atmosphere is winsomely appealing; we’d go back even if the food were not so good. Beer & wine.

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