San Antonio

(From June 2011)

Yes, the menu is varied, the cooking excellent, and the tables right by the river. But wait! There’s more! How about a four-course dinner on a barge that tours the San Antonio River? The menu the night we voyaged started with chips, salsa, and just-made guacamole; moved on to a Southwest Caesar salad; gave us a choice of grilled Atlantic salmon or beef tenderloin; and finished up with ice cream and chocolate sauce. All in all, a competent, if unspectacular, dinner, but since a river trip is almost de rigueur when in San Antonio, what better way to take it in? Bar.

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(From May 2012)

Considered by locals to be the Alamo Heights restaurant, Cappy’s captures much of the élan of this tony community. Many of the dishes juxtapose inspired flavors, such as a scallop with mango coulis or salmon with blood orange gastrique. But most of the menu is a solid mix of established favorites. We thought the sautéed salmon with puréed asparagus lovely, while the tender short ribs with onion polenta made a hearty dish just right for a cold evening. Admirably trained servers give Cappy’s a welcoming atmosphere. Bar.

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(From March 2012)

Here, a deluxe diner menu (think mac and cheese meets grilled ahi) attracts the glitterati of Stone Oak to feast, wine, and mingle amid its stone arches and coppery adornments. Do we less-adorned mind? Not a bit, as long as co-owner Drew Glick (a former New Yorker whose provenance shows in the pizza) and chef Jeremy Gibboney keep dishing up their imaginative take on modern comfort food. Stand-outs include lamb lollipops atop a swirl of tomatoey lentils; roasted wild mushroom pizza with jalapeños; and banana pudding worth a Proustian tribute. Casual but still dressed up service and ambience (patio, chef’s table, bar tables) make it just fine for date night, sleepover brunch, or late-night munchies. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

San Antonio’s Southtown is fertile ground for restaurants, this accomplished newcomer being one of them. Mediterranean-style dishes as diverse as chorizo with clams, a brussels sprouts brochette, and marinated octopus salad populate the menu’s six categories: Hot, Chilled, Grilled, Crisp, Melted, and Mains. We like to order one “main” per person (like the seared, very rare ahi tuna with watermelon) and share a round of the smaller dishes, which include the likes of lightly crisp slabs of calamari with a peppery aioli, celery root bisque, and pork cheek tacos. The Andalusian sea bass chowder with shellfish proved too hefty and spicy for a hot San Antonio evening, but other dishes seem made for the Texas climate—inventively spicy yet only modestly filling. Sharp contrasts of black, white, and clear acrylic create visual energy, and servers have the menu down pat. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

This most romantic of steakhouses goes the distance, holding on to eighty years of tradition in its rock cottages, dramatic oaks, outdoor fire pit, and top-quality meats and fish. And these days, it’s also embracing a modern, lighter, and more nuanced version of its standbys; the squash casserole is still famously seasoned with cumin, and the sour cream double-stuffed potato is almost a throwback, but on this visit, they were both plated and served with welcome restraint. As for the meat, it remains on our top chop list; our peppered ribeye was both flavorful and tender. The wine list here is renowned, so take time to peruse. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

Depending on the time of day or night, you may find service upstairs, downstairs, and even outside this red-brick former convent. But wherever you’re seated, there’s something comfortable, familiar, and familial about the Lib. We continue to delight (after several decades of experience) in the edited simplicity, careful attention to flavor and texture, and all-round dependability of the kitchen and staff and their “serious food.” We started our lunch (after a hearty slice of the house bread) with grilled slices of potato and garlic sauce, then launched into a special of mole chicken enchiladas, rich and perfectly balanced with white Mexican rice and black beans. From the “basics” menu, roast lamb topped with arugula on whole-wheat toast exemplifies the approach. Bar.

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(From June 2012)

For a River Walk dinner without the hustle and bustle, locals often opt for this venerable, though somewhat pricey, steakhouse. The menu has expanded in recent years, yet the choice of steaks is a bit diminished, perhaps in deference to changing appetites. Indeed, we dined very well on a tender filet but also mixed in chilled crab legs and a salmon filet with a rich dill cream sauce. Tables cascade down terraces that go from street level almost to the river, offering an ever-changing view of boat traffic and passers-by. Bar.

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(From April 2012)

Okay, the sandwiches are fine, great, sure. But when you can feast on fluffy pancakes, omelets that take inspiration from cities around the world, and every breakfast side from hash to grits to toast, why not have breakfast for lunch? If Magnolia were open for dinner, we’d have it then too. If you’re lucky enough to hit the season right, order the eggs over calico hash, a concoction that showcases the kitchen’s Southern proclivities filtered through a Teutonic sensibility (by which we mean russet and sweet potato hash browns mixed with shredded pulled pork).

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