San Antonio

(From January 2012)

What happened? This friendly spot, long known for serving Italian fare far more exalted than the modest prices suggest, seems to have slipped back to just a notch or two above mediocrity. Bow tie pasta with smoked salmon had an unpleasant intensity of flavor that was most un-Italian, while the polenta with goat cheese came with an overbrowned crust that robbed it of its delicacy and lightness. We fared better with the shrimp and tomato risotto, whose flavors melded admirably. The specials (see the board on the wall) are often a good bet, and if the crew can right the ship, Ciao should regain its standing as a local favorite. Beer & wine.

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(From February 2012)

Without fanfare, the Hotel Valencia’s Citrus restaurant has been making a name for itself among downtown restaurants. Within walking distance of the Majestic Theater, this second-floor dining room and terrace presents mostly locally grown fare in impressively polished guises. A crab cake with avocado and pumpkin seeds impressed all who tasted it. Tender roasted antelope with “Texas peppers” and outstandingly flavorful mashed potatoes with chipotle was a big hit, but so was the impeccably cooked black grouper with quinoa pilaf. An able and well-informed waiter took good care of us, but allow plenty of time if you are going to a performance after dinner. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

The glow of wine bottle chandeliers overhead, the clink of glasses all around, the crackle of twig-thin bread sticks, an elegant service of citrus and cucumber for your water—from the start, Il Sogno is a feast for the senses. Something new is always on hand, like an inspired margherita pizza generously dressed with shreds of tender oxtail or an antipasto dish of small cubes of potato and octopus. Entrées are generous enough to share, especially if you choose one of the exemplary braised meats, such as the fork-tender beef short ribs, off the bone and served with parsnips and tiny potatoes. Chef Andrew Weissman’s approach is straightforward; his ingredients’ inherent flavor, texture, and color are gently enhanced rather than embellished. Beer & wine.

Thursday, December 22nd, 2011, 3:40 pm
Todd says:
Very disappointed, waiter informed us that the menu was changing therefore several items on the menu were no longer available. And of the available items they were out. The bread sticks on the table and ambiance are nice touches, but don’t make a menu.

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(From November 2011)

Although it’s part of a California-based “collection of restaurants,” Piatti looks and acts like your favorite neighborhood spot, thanks to local restaurateur and general manager Dan Ward. With patio tables, friendly service, and fresh-to-the-moment Italian fare, a meal here is always a good bet. The accommodating kitchen will even substitute your favorite pasta, be it delicate capellini or a zucchini tagliatelle, in any of the tasty preparations (caper tomato cream, Gulf shrimp scampi). The place pulses all weekend, and it’s wise to reserve ahead even during the week. Bar. Quarry Market at the base of the smokestacks, 

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(From December 2010) At Piccolo’s, Southern Italian and Italian-American favorites, with their lusty sauces and hearty flavors, have ruled since 1984, but when the helm of the kitchen passed from father to son a couple years ago, the menu expanded to include more seafood and lighter dishes. Particularly worthy of notice: mussels in white wine with basil, a tongue-tingling cold calamari, and then, of course, the traditional table-cloth-staining lasagne. Sometimes service has been a bit brisk (though on our last visit our server was welcoming and efficient). Beer & wine.

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(From June 2011) The third incarnation of Grissini (recently departed from Broadway and now named Rossini) sits in a pleasant corner spot with maybe a dozen tables and a small bar. The food is as good as ever (maybe better), with standouts such as a duck breast with a fragrant balsamic sauce and a filet of red snapper cooked to ideal doneness, then sauced with chopped leeks and artichoke hearts. Appetizers there are aplenty, but we happily started by splitting a plate of risotto with mushrooms. Moderately priced, with a modest wine list and capably informal service, Rossini makes a fine addi-tion to the north side. It also seems to grasp the essence of the res-taurant business, as summed up in a large sign above the bar: “Mangia, Beve, Paga, et Vai” (Eat, Drink, Pay, and Go). Beer & wine.

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(From April 2012)

This is one of the best spots to eat with a crowd downtown (there’s a sibling Tre next to Brackenridge Park), both for the fare—imaginative, yet true to the Tuscan emphasis on ingredients above all—and for the convivial buzz in the room. Encouraged by a menu of both small plates and family-size portions, we shared freshly made mozzarella; a pizza topped with rich duck confit, radicchio, and apple; and a bowl of plump potato-Gorgonzola ravioli topped with short-rib ragù. The Tuscan sun shown bright, even on the edge of winter weather. Bar.

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(From May 2012)

Most River Walk restaurants absorb the high energy of strolling, jostling crowds, but this location must be the most peaceful on the river, at least if you eat outdoors. The menu is mostly northern Italian, with such stand-outs as salmon with baby artichokes in saffron broth and semolina-crusted grouper. An appetizer of fettuccine featured a bolognese that was simultaneously mild and rich yet full of meaty flavor. Service is practiced and obliging, though if you eat alongside the river (where you can gaze up at the Tower Life Building), it can be hard to catch a waiter’s eye. Bar.

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