San Antonio

(From May 2012)

Boasting food from South and Central America and “the islands,” Azuca’s menu is wildly varied. We started out with a peppery tortilla soup and a black bean soup enlivened with cilantro, both of which scored high for originality and flavor. A mixed grill with beef, pork, chicken, sausage, and plenty of chimichurri sauce could have served two or three of us, which was just as well, because the Argentinean beef shank was mostly bone and what little meat there was proved objectionably tough. Such problems are rare, though, and the jovial atmosphere combined with the exuberant Latino art make Azuca a destination like no other in town.

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(From February 2012)

Street fare inspires the menu, although a few Tex-Mex standards (like the really tasty cheese enchilada specials) are on the menu too. But why choose the South Texas ubiquitous when this is almost the only place to find rare treats like exquisitely flaky empanadas? These flaky, eat-with-a-fork envelopes have fillings both savory and sweet; the pork guisada with red chile and comino is an entrée-worthy star, while the mango-raspberry proves a tropical pie to die for. Inside are booths and cafe tables; out back is a shaded beer garden/icehouse patio. Beer & wine.

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