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BELLA ON THE RIVER
106 River Walk, just off St. Mary’s near Commerce (210-404-2355) Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. Reservations suggested. web site | map | latest review | no access | add to library |
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$$–$$$ |
Mediterranean |
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(From November 2011) The cavelike space once inhabited by Dolores del Rio has a new tenant, an appealing and imaginative Mediterranean restaurant that seems to do almost everything well. The noise can be a little high and the tables are closely packed, but the kitchen can turn out such dishes as fresh, tangy asparagus soup with yogurt, Eggplant Josephine (crisp eggplant, shrimp, cheese, and hollandaise), and a Barcelona-worthy paella full of shrimp, chicken, mussels, peas, and clams. Service was tentative and lacking in polish, but, to be fair, we were there in the restaurant’s early days. We will certainly be back. Beer & wine.
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BOARDWALK BISTRO
4011 Broadway (210-824-0100) Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-9 , Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | photo | access + | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Continental / Mediterranean |
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(From May 2012) Northern Africa and the Middle East provide most of the inspiration at this Mediterranean outpost, but French and Spanish dishes add variety to the long menu. Consider the chef’s tasting menu, which may be a four course dinner built around a very flavorful cinnamon lamb tagine, or perhaps paella or cassoulet. We also thought highly of the arctic char, the very prototype of whitefish, both delicate and flavorful. Busy, sometimes noisy, but always cheerful and clublike, Boardwalk Bistro adds live Jazz to the mix Fridays and Saturdays.
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ENCANTO
6032 FM 3009 (210-888-2753) Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri 11–11, Sat 10–11, Sun 8–9. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$ |
Mexican / Mediterranean |
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(From November 2011) There aren’t many places where a server mixes the guacamole at your table, lets you taste it, then adds whatever you like. But that’s just one of several appealing touches at this northeast side newcomer. Mexican with a bit of Mediterranean sets the tone; main courses include grilled chicken on “hominy polenta” and moist salmon with grilled red peppers, squash, asparagus, and mushrooms. Even the table salsa stood out, with its strong tomato flavor and just a touch of peppery bite. Though Encanto is big, clean, bright, and casual, there is not much atmosphere, thanks in part to the three TVs over the bar. Bar.
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MARIOLI
18730 Tuscany Stone, at Stone Oak (210-496-1111) Open Mon–Wed 10:30–10, Thur–Sat 10:30–11, Sun noon–8. map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$–$$ |
Mexican / Mediterranean |
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(From June 2011) When caterer Mariana Oliver (a well-traveled chef born in Mexico City) opened up her “gastronomic†walk-in shop, she combined up-scale takeout with a chic cafe. And now the Stone Oak lunch and din-ner business is clicking right along, the glass-topped counters full of Mexican, Mediterranean, and deli specialties. Distinctly fresh flavors prevail, whether an out-of-the-ordinary lunchbox offering like corned beef with arugula and caramelized onions or a cheese-filled and egg-battered chile relleno, which managed a just-out-of-the-skillet flavor even though it came from the deli case. Desserts are opulent and tempt-ing, like huge triangles of chip-filled brownies and saucer-size fresh fruit tarts. Beer & wine.
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