San Antonio

(From August 2011)

Perched above the river, a bit away from the madding throng, Acenar is the most stylish culinary and architectural adventure of local restaurateur Lisa Wong (of Rosario’s and China Latina). Here you’ll find bold colors, cutting-edge design, a busy bar, good service, and, best of all, contemporary Mexican food. The guacamole is a work of art; the chips are served in those trendy cones; the margs are made with fresh-squeezed juices. Tender corn crepes, from huitlacoche to pato (duck), are among the unusual options, along with tender cabrito and Mexican-style grilled redfish. It’s far from your ordinary taco joint. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

Mexico, washed by both the Atlantic and the Pacific, does glorious things with its plentiful seafood, and El Bucanero serves up a profusion of fish and shellfish in an informal, exuberant style. True, we did find the oysters flavorless, but everything else, from tangy ceviche with avocado to shrimp veracruzana to a whole crisp, lightly fried tilapia on yellow rice, made us want to come back. Tucked away on the southeast side, this local favorite is often full of visitors from all over the city.

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(From March 2012)

At night this family-owned operation goes modern Mex, with dishes such as chipotle-spiced potato enchiladas and a towering Ensalada Chapultepec, with roasted corn, black beans, and jícama. That, along with more traditional dishes at lunch and Sunday brunch, make this a not-to-be-missed destination. Those in the know go for the daily specials, such as Thursday’s fork-tender lengua en salsa (beef tongue in a robust sauce) and roast corn soup, with crunchy off-the-cob kernels and a salty, smoky undertow. Folk art and a snazzy bar (with a full contingent of margaritas) add to the comfortable atmosphere. Bar.

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(From March 2011) Tex-Mex and deep Mex come together in this colorful, vibrant restaurant on the North Side. The chile en nogada (a poblano stuffed with pork and almonds and drizzled with a white walnut sauce flecked with pomegranate seeds) delighted our whole table; so did the lobster quesadilla (plenty for two), which attained heights rarely seen in San Antonio Mexican restaurants. The rich tortilla soup could make a lunch in itself, what with its robust broth, avocado slivers, and melting cheese. Don’t ignore the flavorful al pastor tacos, with pineapple, onion, and cilantro. Bright-red-tiled tabletops and plenty of hanging plants enliven the decor, while a boisterous energy infuses the service. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

There aren’t many places where a server mixes the guacamole at your table, lets you taste it, then adds whatever you like. But that’s just one of several appealing touches at this northeast side newcomer. Mexican with a bit of Mediterranean sets the tone; main courses include grilled chicken on “hominy polenta” and moist salmon with grilled red peppers, squash, asparagus, and mushrooms. Even the table salsa stood out, with its strong tomato flavor and just a touch of peppery bite. Though Encanto is big, clean, bright, and casual, there is not much atmosphere, thanks in part to the three TVs over the bar. Bar.

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(From February 2012)

Guajillo casts aside the clichés of Tex-Mex and boasts of serving the dishes of Mexico City. Whether it be the codfish with onions and tomato (bacalao a la mexicana, a bright spot on the lunch menu), the pork loin with melted cheese on corn tortillas, or the albóndigas with an intriguing chipotle sauce, this is a long way from the city’s usual tacos and enchiladas. Also unusual is the gratis bowl of soup; we prefer the intensely flavorful, slightly picante red tortilla soup, liberally topped with melted cheese. Informal, bustling at lunchtime, and abundantly supplied with vigilant servers, Guajillo’s is a true gem. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

San Antonio’s outdoor eating is best in the fall, and La Gloria, along the river at the Pearl complex, is the hot spot. Informality reaches new heights here (so to speak), where about fifty Mexican street delicacies fill the menu. Ceviche veracruzano, bright with tomatoes and cilantro, is outstanding; so is the uncommon panucho (similar to a sandwich but with masa instead of bread) filled with the Yucatecan pork specialty cochinita pibil. Chicken with mole sauce, served on a sope (a small, thick corn tortilla) is another winner. It can be noisy indoors; the outdoor patio’s boisterous servers and view of the river appeal to many.

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(From June 2011) When caterer Mariana Oliver (a well-traveled chef born in Mexico City) opened up her “gastronomic” walk-in shop, she combined up-scale takeout with a chic cafe. And now the Stone Oak lunch and din-ner business is clicking right along, the glass-topped counters full of Mexican, Mediterranean, and deli specialties. Distinctly fresh flavors prevail, whether an out-of-the-ordinary lunchbox offering like corned beef with arugula and caramelized onions or a cheese-filled and egg-battered chile relleno, which managed a just-out-of-the-skillet flavor even though it came from the deli case. Desserts are opulent and tempt-ing, like huge triangles of chip-filled brownies and saucer-size fresh fruit tarts. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2011)

What’s obvious at this Southtown hot spot (and no more so than on summer evenings and during First Friday art strolls) is that food here is anything but standard Tex-Mex. True, with its (mostly) norteño sensibility of meat and red chiles, there are plenty of enchiladas, fajita plates, and flour tortillas on order for the die-hards. But we like to step over to the wild side: Here’s the place for platters of crisp, crumb-coated sweetbreads and copas of zippy ceviche, rampant with lime, oregano, and jalepeño chiles. Whatever you order, you’ll dine with a loud, happy heart and, if you’re able, a margarita in hand. Bar.

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(From August 2011)

From blackened chicken to blue corn enchiladas, breakfast to late-night barhopping, Southwestern food rules at this three-level riverside roost. We like the Shiner black bean soup to start, followed by something off the grill (the Angus ribeye is always a good bet). For its location—tourists mill about under the River Walk’s sky-reaching cypress trees—the food often exceeds expectations, but the service can be maddeningly slow. P.S. The fuchsia cactus pear margaritas are a destination in their own right. Bar.

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