Shelley's Crawfish-Cornbread Stuffing
Cranberry-Bourbon Sauce
Lemon Cake With Dried Apricots and Walnuts

The obvious signs of a catered party -- rented chafing dishes, mirrored trays, snap-draped tables, and starchy flowers -- are nowhere to be seen at a function by Food Company, a three-year-old catering concern. Instead, the food is straightforward, and the table arrangements have a natural look that links the party to its surroundings.

"We're not a Chinese-restaurant kind of caterer where you choose one item from column A and one from column B," says Shelley Barsotti, the chef and menu planner (above left, with Andrea Whitefield, display designer, and Diane McIngvale, chief organizer and party planner). "It's the client's taste, not ours, that we want to focus on."

For a Southwestern approach, the holiday menu starts with chimichangas filled with a spicy chicken-and-black-bean mixture; they are accompanied by a grilled-tomato-and-pepper salsa. Dallas goat cheese and fresh chopped herbs are folded into delicate avocado crepes; the crepes will be filled and folded just before serving. Bite-size tamales are stuffed with smoked shrimp and steamed; they need only to be garnished. Quail stuffed with a piquant crawfish-cornbread stuffing make a sensible holiday entrèe -- they are attractive resting on a bed of greens and roasted peppers. There are several vegetable combinations: a wintery mix of brussels sprouts braised with chestnuts; yellow wax beans and green beans; and roasted new and sweet potato quarters. A rich cranberry-bourbon sauce is a refreshing counterpoint.

The dessert menu features some old ideas with a new twist, like a warm fruit crisp made with pears and cranberries and a tangy lemon cake studded with dried apricots and walnuts. It's all food designed to suit the setting.

The phrase "throw a party" is deceptively nonchalant. The rare hostess who has the time and talent to pull all the necessary skills together often ends up too exhausted to enjoy her own party. Still, many people are reluctant to call a caterer to help with entertaining. Here's how to get started:

1. Listen to the grapevine. The best caterers rely on word of mouth; when you go to other parties, notice the details -- is the food presented attractively, does it taste good, are tables bused promptly?

2. Shop around. Briefly interview several caterers on the phone. Do they provide food only, or are they a full-service operation, arranging for decorations, music, valet parking, rental, help, and cleanup? What kind of food do they serve? Ask for references and sample menus.

3. Know your budget. It is impossible to plan a party without some idea of price range. Ask for bids from two caterers or get two proposals from one, and request an itemized list of costs. Find out who will be responsible for damages.

4. Trust your instincts. A caterer is someone you need to communicate with easily -- he or she will be coming into your home and representing you. Remember: it's your party.