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John Palmer Leeper knows something about the finer things in life. For 35 years he has been the director of San Antonio's McNay Art Museum; good taste has guided that institution. And among the finer things John Leeper has discovered are pickles. "There's something enormously satisfying about preserving foods," he says, "seeing the rows and rows of jars lined when you're done." A confident master of the Mason jar, Leeper puffs away at his cigar while the vegetables and melon rind cook and steep ("Ashes don't hurt the pickles," he claims). And he has even introduced pickles into the McNay's trove of other treasures: One holiday season he gave every employee at the museum a jar from his special reserve.

The watermelon pickle recipe, which Leeper calls "wonderful, one of the best I've ever come across," has a familial connection. It belonged to a great-aunt of his and was included years ago in a cookbook published by the Dallas Episcopal St. Monica Guild. Another favorite, for a mustard pickle, is less of an heirloom -- it comes from an old edition of The Joy of Cooking. They are both masterpieces in Leeper's gallery of jarred delicacies.

Watermelon Pickle
Makes About 10 Quarts

10 pounds peeled watermelon rind (see below)
12 pounds granulated sugar
1 quart white vinegar
18 to 20 drops oil of cinnamon
18 to 20 drops oil of cloves

Cut all green parts from watermelon rind before weighing (if firm, a little of the green may be left on). Cut into pieces, put in large pot, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer 10 minutes. Drain, and wash with cold water. Let stand in colander until well drained (1 to 2 hours), then put into enameled kettle. Pour sugar, vinegar, and oils over rind. Let stand 24 hours, stirring occasionally. Boil 10 to 12 minutes. Let stand 4 or 5 days, stirring once each day, before putting into jars. Follow regular canning methods for pickling.