Featured in the November 1999 issue of Texas Monthly

Enchiladas Zacatecanas From Las Manitas, Austin

Chicken Filling

1 whole frying chicken, giblets and excess fat removed
1/2medium onion, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1/2medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 medium tomato, chopped
1/2bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
4 sprigs cilantro
11/2teaspoons cumin
2 tablespoons tomato sauce
11/2teaspoons salt or to taste

Put whole chicken, sliced onion, whole garlic clove, and 1 tablespoon salt in a pot with enough water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until chicken is done, about 30 minutes (it will be cooked more later). Remove from pot and let cool; reserve broth. Remove meat from bones and shred.

In a large saucepan melt butter over low heat. Add all remaining ingredients except for tomato sauce and salt, and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in shredded chicken and sauté briefly. Add tomato sauce and 1/2cup reserved broth. Taste before adding salt.

Zacatecana Sauce

4 poblano chiles
11/4cups grated Monterey Jack
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus some for frying
3/4cup sour cream
2 flour tortillas, torn in quarters
11/2teaspoons salt or to taste
10 corn tortillas (white-corn or other good quality)

Roast chiles over an open flame until blackened. Let cool to the touch, then (wearing rubber gloves) rinse under running water to remove skin. Seed and devein chiles and tear into several pieces. Place in a blender with 1 cup water, 1/4cup cheese, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon sour cream, and the flour tortillas and purée until smooth. Add water if necessary; sauce should be moderately thick and pourable.

Heat a small amount of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the sauce and salt, reduce heat to low, and simmer, lightly bubbling, for 5 minutes.

To serve, heat a small amount of oil in a skillet or sauté pan. Quickly fry corn tortillas for 2 seconds on each side. Fill with chicken and roll up. Place enchiladas on plates, seam side down. Pour sauce on top, sprinkle with remaining cheese, and garnish with dollops of remaining sour cream. Makes 8 to 10 plump enchiladas.

Quick: define "enchilada."

Most people would say it's a rolled or folded tortilla filled with something savory, topped with a sauce, and blanketed in melted cheese. And that would certainly be one correct definition. But if you go by the etymology of the word, there's more to it. The root word is "chile," and "enchilada" means "chile'd" (or chile-treated). (The word "tortilla," which is the thing being chile'd, is understood.) Mexican cooking is full of similar pairs, such as tomate and entomatada (treated or prepared with tomatoes), frijol and enfrijolada (with beans), pan and empanada (with bread).

The enchilada is the workhorse of Mexican cooking, a vehicle so versatile you could fill an entire cookbook with recipes. These enchiladas, served at Las Manitas, are typical of the cuisine of the Mexican state of Zacatecas. Their sauce is fresh and light, but it's their moist, tomatoey, oniony chicken filling that makes them so full-flavored and delicious. One more thing: Before the cooks at Las Manitas would let us use this recipe, they made us promise to tell you something. You must prepare it with the care that comes from respect and love for those you are feeding. If you don't, it will not turn out right.
Patricia Sharpe

Produce
onion
garlic
tomato
bell pepper
poblano chiles
cilantro

Grocery
Monterey Jack
olive oil
sour cream
tortillas (flour & corn)
dried marjoram
cumin
tomato sauce

Poultry
whole frying chicken