Flautas in a taco story? Absolutely. In Mexico, tacos come rolled as well as folded. And El Paso’s famed rolled tacos—you know the ones!—get justice at this gourmet food truck gone brick-and-mortar inside Funkmeyers Rec Room, an eighties- and nineties-themed “barcade” for nostalgic Gen Xers. (There’s pinball!) The tortillas for the flautas are made from a 50/50 mix of corn masa and white wheat flour, filled with ground beef, formed into flautas, and then fried before being dunked in a tart tomatillo-based salsa verde bath. (Ahogada is Spanish for “drowned.”) Mexican crema amplifies the dish’s sharpness, while queso fresco kicks in with the salt. Also worth consideration is owner Jesse Peña’s interpretation of a Rio Grande Valley taco, shot with queso fresco and a tangle of grilled onions—for those pining for a taste of Brownsville, more than 800 miles away.
1506 N. Lee Trevino Dr, 915-203-4163. Open 7 days 11–10. www.tacoholics.com