Future Forum: Guilt, Innocence, and the Death Penalty 
Water, Water Everywhere
In the old days, Texans fell into two categories: lake people and folks who wouldn’t be caught dead within a hundred yards of the shore. But times have changed—lakes are more accessible, facilities are more family friendly, and activities include a heck of a lot more than going out on a boat and drinking beer. We scoured the state from the Panhandle to the Rio Grande to find twenty great adventures, from skiing on Lake Texoma to flying high above Lake Conroe. So dive right in. The summer won’t last forever.
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7. Gear Up
Joe Pool Lake, near Dallas
TUCKED AWAY AT THE SOUTHWEST END OF Dallas County is this jewel of a state park, set on the shores of a lake that was filled only in 1989. While most visitors come here for the fishing and boating (you can rent all kinds of craft at Joe Pool Marina), Cedar Hill State Park offers outstanding recreation that’s not too far from your downtown loft. You will enjoy a walk around the historic farm buildings built by John Penn, who settled his family here in the mid-1800’s, while your spirit will be restored by the park’s abundant flora and fauna. Rugged limestone hillsides are covered with forests of elm, mesquite, and juniper, and below them patches of prairie that harbor endangered tall grasses and other plants (who could resist the chance to see an antelope-horn milkweed or a trout lily?). Bobcats and raccoons shelter among the trees, and in the fall more winged guests arrive—kinglets, warblers, and flocks of cedar waxwings. But my favorite attraction is the twenty or so miles of mountain biking trails that were built by the avid cyclists of the Dallas Off Road Bicycle Association. Three separate loops snake through the forests all the way down to the shore, and they range from three to just over twelve miles long, so everyone can find a comfortable challenge. Just watch the weather; the trails are closed after a heavy rain.
From Dallas, take Interstate 20 west for 6 miles, then head south on FM 1382 and travel 4 miles; 972-291-3900 or tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/cedar_hill/; day use $5 per person. CHARLIE LLEWELLIN
8. Get Lost
Caddo Lake, near Karnack
STANDING NEAR THE FAMILIAR GRAY CYPRESSES DRAPED with Spanish moss, I look out at a wind-ruffled channel that must eventually lead to Caddo Lake. I’ve been to the town of Uncertain before, I’m sure—I remember drifting along Big Cypress Bayou in the spring, when the dogwoods sparkle from among the pine trees—but I’ve never really seen the lake. Somewhere out there is a big expanse of open water, but all I can see are tree-lined back channels. At nearby Caddo Lake State Park you can rent a canoe and float around a mysterious cypress-shaded inlet, but the lake is a long paddle down the bayou. Johnson’s Ranch, at the end of Farm-to-Market Road 2198—where the sign says you can fish from the dock for $1—is closer, and you can get a canoe there too, but even so, the big water is still a workout away. The nearest I got was driving down FM 9, which dead-ends at the south side of the lake. I turned right, following the signs to Tucker’s Fishing Camp. At this point in my journey I was out of time, but you can take one of Mr. Tucker’s flat-bottomed aluminum boats and a trolling motor to find open water. If you make it, let me know what Caddo Lake really looks like.
Caddo Lake State Park: From Karnack, head north on Texas Highway 43 for 1 mile and turn right onto FM 2198. Continue for .5 mile to park entrance; 903-679-3351 or tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/caddo_lake/; day use $2 per person; canoe rentals start at $10 per hour (reservations recommended). Johnson’s Ranch: 5131 E. Cypress Drive, Uncertain; 903-789-3213 or johnsonsranch.com; canoe rentals $20 per day. Tucker’s Fishing Camp: 121 Private Road 2622, Karnack; 903-679-3137; boat rentals start at $7 per day. CL
9. Walk , Run, Ride
White Rock Lake, in Dallas
WHEN RESIDENTS OF SOME CITIES THINK OF DALLAS, they imagine only two things: concrete and sprawl (I’m talking to you, Austin). So what to make of White Rock Lake, a 1,088-acre oasis nestled inside the city limits? The sailing is great. The crappie and largemouth bass are plentiful. What draws the biggest crowds, however, are the nearly ten miles of wide, paved hike-and-bike trails that circle the shore. On a sunny day, they attract hard-core cyclists on their Specialized road bikes and young families with a tricycle pulling up the rear. Okay, so there was that issue of crossing the north end of the lake on Mockingbird Lane, which required a death wish because of the heavy traffic. But earlier this year, a $2.3 million pedestrian bridge opened, allowing you to stroll over the water without risking your life. And there’s no better way to catch your breath than by climbing to the top of Winfrey Point and taking in a stunning view of the downtown skyline. From here, the concrete and sprawl feel as if they’re a world away.
From downtown Dallas, head north on Central Expressway for 4.5 miles. Exit Mockingbird Lane, turn right, go 4 miles, and turn rightat W. Lawther; 214-670-8281; free. BDS
10. Sleep Under the Stars
Inks Lake, near Burnet
WITH ITS PINK GRANITE OUTCROPPINGS, ABUNDANT LIVE OAKS and accessible swimming coves, the 4.2-mile-long Inks Lake has to be the prettiest little lake in Texas. So pitch a tent and stay awhile: Inks Lake State Park, which boasts a range of sites (from the no-water variety to air-conditioned cabins), has the best scenic camping in the Hill Country. Although you reserve only by site type (not number), there are enough lakefront spots to give you a good chance of waking to a view of the water—not that the shady set-back areas are shabby either. (For the least-crowded spots with lake access, opt for the water-only sites on the west side of the park.) You can count on fishing, boating, and swimming—especially at the spectacular cliff-lined Devil’s Waterhole—almost year-round. Add 7-odd miles of hiking trails, eager park volunteers, and the Texas State Park Store that meets all your bug repellent needs, and it’s no wonder this lake attracts campers like ants to a s’more.
From Burnet, head west on Texas Highway 29 for 9 miles to Park Road 4, then go south 3 miles to park entrance; day use $5 per person. Camping reservations $8–$45 per site per night, 512-389-8900. Park information 512-793-2223 or tpwd.state.tx.us/parks/inks/. KATHARYN RODEMANN
11. Get Up To Speed
Lake Texoma, near Denison
I’VE GOT A BIT OF A HISTORY WITH LAKE TEXOMA. My wife’s great-grandfather Ernest never forgave Congressman Sam Rayburn for his plan to dam the Red River, taking the family farm along with it. On a lighter note, when I received my driver’s license some four decades later, Texoma represented the perfect place to skip school with my friends. Back then, we could have only dreamed of barreling past Denison Dam on a pair of skis. With 89,000 acres of water, even on crowded days there’s room to roam. And for my daughter, who recently took her first boat ride, there’s always the allure of zipping past Treasure Island or dropping anchor and exploring the sandy beaches. Don’t let the lack of a boat slow you down. The Eisenhower Yacht Club, in Eisenhower State Park, rents ski boats for the morning or afternoon for $175 or all day for $250 (gas and oil extra; reservations recommended). I almost feel guilty for having so much fun. Please forgive me, Grandpa Ernest.
Eisenhower Yacht Club: From Denison, head north on Texas Highway 91 at U.S. 75 for 4 miles, turn left at FM 1310 West, and continue for 1.8 miles to park entrance; 903-463-3999 or eisenhoweryachtclub.com; day use $3 per person. BDS
12. Catch The Limit
Toledo Bend Reservoir, near Milam
IF YOU ARE LIKE ME AND PICK UP YOUR FISHING tackle two or three times a year, you may not be aware that tucked way away, deep in the Piney Woods of far East Texas, there is a spot on the Sabine River that offers some of the best fishing opportunities in the state: 185,000-acre Toledo Bend Reservoir. Located in the verdant Sabine National Forest of Shelby, Sabine, and Newton counties, Toledo Bend is the largest man-made body of water in the South. I spent the night at Holly Park Marina near the town (crossroads, more like it) of Milam and set out at the crack of dawn with my guide, Ronnie Sheeon, who has led fishing trips on Toledo Bend since 1970. With Sheeon’s expertise and a U-99 lure in watermelon-red on my line, I caught a number of black bass. Surprisingly, he came up empty, explaining later that “sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good.” In one morning I witnessed a majestic bald eagle in flight, trolled right up next to a six- or seven-foot-long alligator, and landed some Toledo Bend lunkers. Lucky? I’ll say.
Holly Park Marina: From Milam, head north on Texas Highway 87 for 5.1 miles to FM 276, then turn right and go 2.7 miles; 409-625-4424 or hollyparkmarina.com. Guide: Ronnie Sheeon Bass Fishing, 409-625-4125; call for reservations and fees. DC
13. Cruise in Style
Lake Buchanan, near Burnet
NOT TO SOUND ALARMIST, BUT THE DROUGHT HAS given new meaning to Lake Buchanan’s Vanishing Texas River Cruise. But a dip in the water level (two feet as of early May) shouldn’t keep you from boarding the General Johnson, a fifty-passenger boat, and touring the northernmost of the Highland Lakes. Although the excursion has been shortened to ninety minutes, down from two and a half hours, it’s still breathtaking. You’ll glide past the wildlife sanctuary of Garrett Island, the old villages of Tow and Bluffton, and the travertine formation of White Bluff, while a khaki-shorts-wearing guide points out landmarks, using the boat as a clock (i.e., “At one o’clock you’ll see Shaw Island, which is actually a peninsula that’s full of pyrite, or fool’s gold, and has some of the best beaches in the Hill Country”). Bring binoculars to zoom in on blue herons, white egrets, Forrester terns, and—if you time your trip during the winter months—American bald eagles. Go ahead and make your outing a mini-vacation by booking the Great Escape package, which includes cruise tickets and box lunches (ham-and-cheese croissant sandwiches, fruit cups, chips), accommodations at the gorgeous 64-room Canyon of the Eagles Lodge, and admission to nearby Longhorn Cavern State Park.
From Burnet, head west on Texas Highway 29 for 3 miles and turn right on RM 2341. The gate house is 14 miles from the turnoff; 800-474-8374 or vtrc.com; 90-minute lake tour $15 (children 2–12 $10); box lunch $6.25; reservations recommended (credit card required; $5 cancellation fee); Great Escape package starts at $180.50. JB
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