Letter From Galveston
No Man’s Island
A year after Ike, my hometown is still reeling from a storm without an end.
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25 comments
Monday, August 9th, 2010, 9:37 am
satishece says:
Those factors existed before Ike, and they will continue.
www.freshdls.com
Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009, 3:53 am
edward says:
have never visited this island before, but after reading this would gladly do that. still, wouldn’t like to live there permanently, being afraid of all that natural disaster. have read a lot about it, downloaded great articles by torrent search engine wish you all the best!
Sunday, September 6th, 2009, 3:49 pm
Andrea P. Sunseri says:
What a terribly, disappointing article Paul Burka wrote about Galveston and Ike. I challenge him to read the article that was written by Sheila McNulty for the London Financial Times May 30-31, 2009 issue entitled A New Storm Surge, clearly 2 months before he managed to drive all the way from Austin to see the city he once called home. Mrs. McNulty’s article shows her "glass is half full". Mr. Burka’s shows a "half empty glass. Next time he decides to visit, let someone drive him around so he can see how much has been done and that most of the restaurants and businesses are up and running again, even the ones in The Strand District. He owes Galveston a more positive article.
Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009, 11:11 pm
David says:
As a man who lived in Galveston as a child, moved away, and visited the island for the last 40 or more years, here is my perspective. I recently visited the island with my girlfriend. We stayed at a hotel on the seawall, a place we have stayed at in the past prior to Ike, and ate at some of our favorite places. Most of our favorite shops were still open. We did take note that the Flagship looks as if it has been "bombed" but the city of Galveston is still the same ole Galveston I have known for well over forty years.
Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009, 1:18 pm
Chris Frederickson says:
I read with dismay the concatenation of factual error, bias, and bigotry that recently escaped the word processor of Mr Burka concerning Galveston.
Concerning the facts: First, there was no “hammering†of Galveston by water from the bay. I know. I have 5 buildings about 100 yards from the harbor: all were filled to the ceilings with water, but none was hammered – no signs of any “hammering†anywhere on the back side of the island. Nothing “askew.†The water rose quietly to 6-8’ from the floors (depending on elevation), flooded everything, then receded equally calmly.
By the time Burka wrote his piece (“mid-Julyâ€), the Seawall was virtually completely repaired, and the Strand/Harborside/Market area was almost completely repaired. In fact, it is virtually completely recovered. Moreover, places like Beach Town, Evia, and the East End all look magnificent ! Better than pre-Ike, due to new paint and trim.
It was also suggested that losing the UTMB would be a “death sentence†to Galveston. In fact, about 70% of the salary dollars paid by UTMB go to mainlanders, not Galvestonians, and UTMB pays no taxes at all.
By the way, around 30% of the island’s oaks did not die and will not be cut down.
As to the bias and bigotry, let’s take some of the more conspicuous: (i) The reason most of us hope the 6,000-strong welfare-projects population will not return is not the snarkey “Crime, you know†claimed by Burka. We know that that the poor people made to live in those projects are poorly served by being forced to live in such “stalags.†Furthermore, because of the constant storm threat, Galveston is not a safe place for people who do not have the means to evacuate themselves and their treasures when storms threaten.
Concerning the people who have moved to the mainland post-Ike, I am sure they were pleased to hear their new towns and subdivisions (many of which are magnificent, historical, and charming) described by Burka as “blue-collar,†“ smelly†and “souless.†Gosh ! Paul is not very nice to anyone.
More of Burka’s bias seeps into the piece when he mentions that a population below 50,000 would prevent Galveston from getting some Federal money. Like many Perry, Palin, and other US Governors lately, many of us in Galveston would say “hooray†to that !
Tuesday, September 1st, 2009, 11:54 am
Robert Heard says:
This is rich. Your 09.2009 edition runs a cover article on Texas Tech’s Mike Leach by S,C. Gwynne that mentions Leach’s emphasis on passing, yet does not explain why Leach passes so much. Those of us who know football instantly can tell you it goes back to 1980, when the NCAA changed the pass-blocking rule. Previously, the rule dictated that offensive linemen hold their fists-hands against their chests. Now they can extend their hands to the body of the defensive lineman so long as they keep their hands within the defender’s shoulders. Even Darrell Royal said in the 1990s he, too, would throw the ball under the new rule. Tech NEVER runs the ball except off passing formations as a surprise, usually a draw, or a reverse. Tech throws the ball 90 percent of the time. Even "balanced" teams like the Texas Longhorns throw it half the time. All offensive linemen illegally hold opponents for at least one second, then release them before they get caught. If they can provide their passer four seconds instead of three, they increase the chances of completion of passes, Many of us would like to se the NCAA modify the "new" rule to restore running plays. But that won’t happen because fans love 46-45 scores.
Robert Heard
Monday, August 31st, 2009, 10:52 am
Isabel says:
With perhaps the exception of the loss of our trees, my life in Galveston has been completely restored to its pre-Ike rhythm. All of my favorite businesses and shops have returned; everywhere I look there are happy residents glad to resume their lives in our lovely town. The only change that a "drive-thru" such as yours evinces is the mass amount of newly employed contractors and construction workers whose efforts lend a heartening air of rebirth to our city.
Thursday, August 27th, 2009, 6:30 pm
Paul Burka says:
I have tried to post a comment, but my own Web site keeps censoring me. Trying again: Yes, I drove through Fish Village. Every street. And I hate that name. Yes, I ate at a restaurant. I ran into Joe Jaworski and his wife at the large Mexican restaurant on the seawall near 45th. And I had breakfast at a favorite bakery on 14th St.
No, I was not there in December. I was there in June and again in July. I didn’t see much activity on the Strand. I drove from one tip of the Island to the other, and from beach to bay.
I must say that I find the rampant boosterism in these comments a bit disturbing. Isn’t it enough that Galveston is a unique city with a unique history? Isn’t it enough that this is the only city in the country on a barrier island with a varied economy? Galveston doesn’t need to be boosterish. It doesn’t need to be defended.
I appreciate my friend Bill Cherry’s remarks. I tried to give a true and correct appraisal of Galveston. If some of you are offended by that, well, I’m sorry. It’s my job. It doesn’t mean that I love Galveston any less. It just means that I wrote what I saw, and I don’t apologize for it.
Thursday, August 27th, 2009, 12:25 pm
Cathy says:
Mr. Burka-What an incredibly well-written piece of fiction!
Wednesday, August 26th, 2009, 9:14 pm
Brandi P says:
Are you BLIND? We are reopening our businesses and rebuilding a strong community. Did you even dine out or shop downtown while you were visiting? Did you get out of your car? I understand that you are a BOI but obviously you are so displaced that you fail to see the overall enlightened spirit of our beloved island. Come back and let us introduce you to "your" island.
Wednesday, August 26th, 2009, 8:16 pm
Sara Adams says:
J.W. Lown was the best mayor San Angelo ever had. If you want to do a really interesting story do an expose on our venerable chief of police. I think his character was exposed in your story about our past mayor.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 9:24 pm
Bill Cherry says:
I think what Paul saw and reported is fair and thoughtfully written.
He worries that this precious Loved One might have a harder time recovering this time. That is the blunt reality all of us who are kin to that Loved One must face as well.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 4:55 pm
Donna says:
We islanders are survivors, not free loaders and we have all worked damn hard to put our lives, homes and businesses back together. We are still a work of art, in progress, and we will finish the job! Next time you come to Galveston, perhaps you should meet some new friends to gain another perspective. My Galveston will be back...
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 2:14 pm
Kate says:
I agree that this article does not do Galveston justice! We have been back in our home since April, and after Ike, our house was literally external walls, studs and a slightly damaged roof - no sheetrock, no floors, no ceilings. As a resident of Fish Village, I must ask if you even bothered driving through the neighborhood or if you simply relied on pictures taken immediately following the storm for your mention of the neighborhood? If you drove through the neighborhood, you would find most of its homes repaired, children playing at the neighborhood park and people pushing strollers and walking dogs through the neighborhood’s streets (myself included). As for people moving to the island, the Ike-damaged (and repaired) home next door to me was just leased, and at least two other houses on our street have been sold and re-inhabited by newcomers. My husband works at UTMB, and I can say for sure that UTMB is doing business. Did you try walking into the building, or did you really think that a simple "drive-by" provided enough information for your story? The ER reopened on August 1st, and since then, it has been filled to maximum capacity. As stated earlier, the OB department has been thriving since immediately following the storm. Perhaps next time you can send an author who would rather take the time to investigate what he is writing about than to hang out with old friends and sip some cold ones in the garage.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 11:14 am
Lynne says:
Great, true, realistic comments, everyone. I hope you all will enjoy a special, personal response from Mr. Burka like I got.
I find it odd that he titles this story "No Man’s Land", paints a completely bleak, backwards picture of a "storm with no end" but then (as Heidi reminded me) doesn’t want to leave the reader with a picture of doom and gloom.
Mr. Burka, have you anything else to say, please do so in this forum, not my email inbox. Cheers.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 10:44 am
Rob says:
The article was very negative and seemed to have been created with the help of the rose colored glasses of childish nostalgia. I too drove to all parts of the island, and everywhere saw spirited renewal and rejuvenation rising from the damage. Mr Burka’s was not the Galveston I saw in July!
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 10:36 am
Heidi says:
After reading this I have to wonder if Mr. Burka visited the same island on which I live and have spent the past 11 months since Hurricane Ike. Perhaps his perspective is different because this appears to be his second trip to the island since the storm compared to those of us who live here day in and day out. And, he did only visit for two days. There’s so much to see and do on this island, even after Ike, that it’s hard to take it all in with so little time. Of course, having read this article, I learned that apparently Galveston is floundering since Ike and I didn’t even realize it living here.
Yes, I’ll admit, we are not 100 percent back by any means. There are plenty of people still living in FEMA (or other) trailers in front of their gutted houses. There are plenty of people still relocated in apartments both on and off the island, waiting for their houses to be complete. We did lose some businesses, but so many have opened. It is obvious that Mr. Burka did not spend much time downtown because as anyone here knows, finding a parking space downtown on a weekend this summer was as tricky as it ever is any summer. Business might not have been what it was before the storm, but then again, a lot of things are different since that hurricane.
The important thing to note though is that so much progress has been made. UTMB’s ER is open and the hospital is open. Mr. Burka might not have seen a car or a single patient, but I guess he drove by really really fast or went by the wrong building. Working at UTMB, I see the patients coming and going from John Sealy every day. Maybe not in the vast numbers as before the storm, but in respectable numbers for a hospital that just 11 months ago sat in 5 or 6 feet of water.
Downtown is back and attracting new businesses to replace those that did not reopen. I find it interesting enough to point out that it is our big-name chain establishments who opted not to reopen on The Strand after the hurricane. Many of the locally owned businesses toughed it out, reopened and are now frequented by the denizens of tourists and locals alike shopping downtown. Try and get a table at Yaga’s during the week at lunch and you’ll find it filled with a blend of locals and tourists. LaKing’s, a longtime Galveston tradition, has only been open a few weeks now, and already the faithful have returned. This past weekend was one of the busiest ArtWalks I’ve seen since the storm. Crowds packed Postoffice Street and The Strand to visit galleries and shops open late to celebrate the art community in this town. This is not the empty downtown one might envision after reading this article.
The old adage about tourists not spending money here is just that, old thinking. I’m sure there are still plenty of people who come to the beaches with their own coolers and never visit our local businesses, but there are untold numbers of visitors staying in our hotels, eating in our restaurants and shopping in our shops, even in the post-Ike world.
Just last week I visited with a family in IHOP who was here for a few days. Staying in a hotel. Eating in our restaurants. Shopping in our shops (based on the matching Galveston t-shirts they were sporting). The convention center is booked with conferences, meetings, cheer camp things, jump rope contests, you name it.
Finally, our neighborhoods. It hasn’t even been a full year since the storm and as mentioned earlier, we do still have people working to get back in their homes. That doesn’t mean they are not coming back. I moved home just two weeks ago to my house that was flooded in the East End. I have mourned the loss of my oak trees in my yard and on my street and in my neighborhood. Friends are working desperately to get back in their Fish Village houses, and those along Avenue U near Heards Lane. But we’re working and we’re moving forward and great progress has been made. Each week more and more people are coming home.
If I read this article from anyplace else in Texas I’d wonder if Galveston was even really a place still worthy of a dot on a map, and that is a terribly wrong misrepresentation of this city 11 months after an incredible storm.
The article talks of not wanting to leave the reader with a sense that Galveston is filled with doom and gloom and a feeling of pessimism. But that is exactly the feeling you get at the end of the article and that simply is not Galveston Island today. It is as it always has been a blend of eternal optimists, naysayers and those just trying to get by.
We are here. We are working. We are thriving amid disaster. So if you’re reading this and wondering if Galveston is worth the trip, come on down. Our beaches, businesses and restaurants would welcome you. Don’t let Mr. Burka’s misrepresentation of this city a year after Ike stop you.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 10:06 am
Chris Cahill says:
Paul Burka’s article is shockingly inaccurate. I think he should have spent more time actually talking to residents and business owners, and less time drinking in Vandy Anderson’s garage. For example, most of the businesses on the Strand are open, and were open in July when he was here. Most of our restaurants and attractions are open. I don’t know anyone living under the conditions described in the article.
Mr. Burka’s attitude is unfortunately represenatative of many who grew up here, moved away and now find the changes that have occurred (many for the better)somehow depressing. Well, that’s the case for many of us who grew up in small towns, and it is very subjective. From my perspective, Galveston remains a wonderful place not only to visit, but to live and raise a family. And by the way, I live in Galveston and raised my family here, unlike Mr. Burka.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 10:01 am
Matt says:
Mr. Burka,
Your story was truly disappointing. If it was meant as an emotional, reflective piece, it fell flat. Nothing there. As an informational piece, it holds several inaccuracies and misleading statements. In short, it reads as if you ’phoned it in.’
Around 60% of island residents had no flood insurance. Where is that mentioned in your story?
Avenues O & P have been one-way thoroughfares for DECADES. You make it sound like that’s happened since the storm.
UTMB’s hospital beds (fewer than before Ike, sure) are at capacity almost every day. They have birthed almost as many babies as last year.
You hit all the obligatory touchstones (Flagship, Balinese Room, Strand, etc.) and dropped all the usual clichés, but you got it wrong.
I am no BOI, but I’ve lived in Galveston for a number of years. The threat of another hurricane is not what discourages people from moving here. It’s the higher cost of real estate, the parochial government, the elevated crime rate, and lack of middle-class jobs. Those factors existed before Ike, and they will continue.
Next time you need a Galveston story, don’t bother coming yourself. Send Kinky, instead. He may not have been born here, but I’m sure he’s more plugged in, and he’ll have more enthusiasm for his work.
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 9:51 am
Kathy says:
I invite Mr. Burka to revisit Galveston as we ready for the first anniversary of Hurricane Ike’s visit. I agree that he focused on the negative and did not experience the multitude of positives that abound on the Island. The downtown area is recovering quickly, with shop owners re-opening and new shops opening every day. Each business opening and reopening is celebrated by the entire community – and the support and attendance at every community event has been remarkable. I too am one who lost their entire house down to the studs – and our neighborhood is rebuilding better than before as well. While in various stages of repair – the sense of hope and community is stronger than ever across the Island. I urge Mr. Burka to come down for another look – and to discover the treasure that still exists on our Island!
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009, 9:36 am
Robyn says:
I believe what distresses me most about this article is that it is so incredibly negative and unbalanced and not at all a fair representation of all the good that has been accomplished in less than one year. Everyone I’ve spoken with - from insurance adjusters to national media anchors to FEMA reps, etc - have ALL said: "Galveston has a ’git ’er done’ attitude that is amazing!"
I truly believe, Mr. Burka, that you wrote with the intent to capitalize on the negative and overlook the positive.
As a member of the City Council-appointed- Galveston Community Recovery Committee, I am in awe of the spirit, commitment, dedication, and firm believe from the City, as well as these fine volunteers who have served - and continue to serve - that Galveston is coming back and will continue to come back better and stronger than before.
As one who lost literally everything in the storm, I remain positive, confident, and hopeful. It’s just unfortunate that you chose not to showcase that same resiliency and determination to your readers. I trust that this feature will only make those of us who choose to live and work here even more determined to succeed.
Monday, August 24th, 2009, 11:29 pm
Tikie Kriticos says:
The Island is not what you wrote. Without comparing Galveston to other disaster areas we have worked hard and through hardships to get our homes and business back. I don’t know of anyone living in the conditions you described. I had two customers come into my restaurant that were only staying two days to visit relatives because of hype like this. After seeing the island and it’s recovery so far, they stayed for 5 days and enjoyed. Galveston is "less than a tank of gas" for millions of people. If you want to visit the coast and have fun it’s here on Galveston Island.
Monday, August 24th, 2009, 11:16 pm
Pam Sparks says:
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Monday, August 24th, 2009, 3:44 pm
Lynne says:
I have no great love for Galveston but this article is off base and irresponsible. The hyperbole about UTMB is ridiculous. On a regular basis our family uses UTMB and I have never found it to be without patients. Most also have every expectation that the legislature and the UT Board will honor their committments. And it is a very very small minority that holds the offensive position that our town and our schools are doing better without the inhabitants of the former housing projects. It is of great concern to the majority of Galvestonians that the city be rebuilt wholly and fairly.
Monday, August 24th, 2009, 1:21 pm
Kristen says:
I live in and own a business in Galveston and this story DOES NOT do justice to the recovery of this city. We are having our best year ever at my business. We are back in our home, after having to totally tear it down to the studs and rebuild--as is almost everyone in my neighborhood. Four years after Katrina, the government had to kick people out of FEMA trailers. Eleven months after Ike, most of our FEMA trailers are being hauled off the island because we don’t have anyone who needs to live in them. It sounds more like your author came to town in December, not July.
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