This most romantic of steakhouses goes the distance, holding on to eighty years of tradition in its rock cottages, dramatic oaks, outdoor fire pit, and top-quality meats and fish. And these days, it’s also embracing a modern, lighter, and more nuanced version of its standbys; the squash casserole is still famously seasoned with cumin, and the sour cream double-stuffed potato is almost a throwback, but on this visit, they were both plated and served with welcome restraint. As for the meat, it remains on our top chop list; our peppered ribeye was both flavorful and tender. The wine list here is renowned, so take time to peruse. Reservations recommended. (4/12)