Puffy, olive oil–brushed focaccia and amazingly bright pesto made such a fabulous bread course that we couldn’t imagine better. A starter of carpaccio was equally impressive, with wafer-thin beef, shaved Parmesan, and fresh arugula doused in aged balsamic. Slow-baked salmon with brussels sprouts and rich carrot purée was cooked right on point, and classic lasagne was kicked up with Akaushi beef (though we felt let down by a bland cream sauce). A fine wine list and polished service set this handsome hotel restaurant apart. (7/13)