Every city needs a restaurant like this upscale national chain, with its clubby atmosphere, art deco chandeliers, oil paintings, and expert service from bow-tied waiters. A hunk of grilled swordfish—not the most neutral-flavored fish in the sea—was transformed by an assertive lemon-shallot relish; a side of creamed spinach revealed why it’s a signature dish here. Dessert was coconut cream pie better than any that Grandma ever made: airy sponge cake, thick custard, and whipped cream festooned with toasted coconut. Bar.