We have been frequenting this amazing joint since it was just a hole in the wall on North Street, with cement floors and sagging red vinyl booths. The present site is more upscale, and the slightly spicy, not too lean barbecue is as good as ever. Even in an area where smoked meat is ubiquitous, the brisket is incomparable—so good that we visited twice on a recent weekend. Our only disappointments were an abnormally long wait on our second visit and slightly surly service on both. Bar.