Here’s to faux-finished walls that boast branches bending to unseen breezes near doily-capped chairs on creaky floorboards long accustomed to the delicate click of vintage stilettos. Yes, the tasteful lair of the Ladies Who Lunch endures. Cell phone users will suffer imperious gazes, but all soon draw comfort from a room aromatic from spices sold on site. The menu is marked by expectedly light offerings, such as a tuna and saltines salad elevated by garden-picked basil and mint and a toothsome chicken plate burnished with darkly sweet mole. Lingering over a coconut butter and jelly sandwich and a cup of hot tea seems refreshingly civil, something best not interrupted by a loathsome Google search for calorie counts. (9/12)