Like all of the McGuire-Moorman productions, the bar at Jeffrey’s is art-directed within an inch of its life; amid a tableau of sumptuous blue velvet and tasteful taxidermy, satin-housecoated waitresses dote on the Birkenstock- and Louboutin-shod alike. Nevertheless, it’s a refreshingly easygoing place to sample from the extensive, expensive menu—emphasis on the latter. And therein lies the rub. A taleggio and wild mushroom soufflé was luxuriously decadent, but broiled escargots were unbearably salty. Crispy sautéed flounder with a silky sunchoke purée (very good) was perfectly fine, while an elaborate rabbit porchetta with nice, bright accents of savoy cabbage and mustard was marred by leaden gnocchi. At prices that flirt with $40 a plate (and more), there’s little room for error. (9/13)