The presence of proprietor John Mueller handing out cans of cold Lone Star explains the blissful smiles on the faces of folks in line at his barbecue trailer in South Austin. So does the gratis sample of fatty brisket, handed out as soon as you reach the order window. Granted, the lean brisket may be just as liberally salted and peppered and meaty, but there’s no going back once you’ve had the fatty. This time our happiest surprise was the pork loin, succulent to the point of being ridiculous (our only complaint was its too-sweet glaze, though some people love it). The big disappointment was a usual favorite, the Flintstone-size beef rib. Somehow it managed to be both falling-off-the-bone-tender and squishy rare inside. Quotidian sides provide excellent filler for preventing protein overload.