While awaiting our order, we were a little awed by the black and white space, so tall that the huge red drum lights hanging from the 20-foot ceilings were hardly noticeable. Indeed, most diners seemed to have crowded around the dark-wood bar as if intimidated by all the space. When our food arrived, though, all we wanted to look at was right before us. We were particularly taken with Susanna’s Special, an appetizer of grilled brussels sprouts in a bubbling horseradish cheese sauce. Vodka pasta, a simple dish of penne with tomato plus Gruyère and Parmesan, proved subtle, with just a hint of alcohol. (4/13)