This airy, brick-lined bistro, beloved for being relaxed and refined, dishes out big flavors in big portions for big prices. Had we not overlooked “crispy” on the baby squid appetizer (it’s calamari), we might have opted otherwise, but we would have missed a splendid rendition, with a sassy sweet-and-spicy glaze. Specials can be slightly over the top, but we’re not complaining. As evidence, we cite flash-fried jumbo shrimp perched atop seared black cod aside lemon crab risotto and veggie ratatouille with citrus beurre blanc. Weeknights bring in business types and River Oaks well-to-do’s, but there’s space aplenty for lingering. (7/13)