Owners Bud and Ann Berry aptly describe their fare as “country gourmet”: With its cheerful blue-checked tablecloths, Edom definitely looks country but chef Jackson York’s culinary talents are strictly uptown. A special of chicken merlot, served with a slightly garlicky shiitake mushroom sauce, defined decadence, and the soup of the day, an incongruous-sounding “cheeseburger soup,” turned out to be a creamy concoction that we declared, despite initial skepticism, our favorite dish of the meal (it came complete with dill pickle). Some twenty miles west of Tyler, Edom is reached via lovely country roads that are well worth traveling, particularly on a Sunday evening, when chef York starts experimenting off-menu and EBG becomes a foodie’s paradise. (7/12)