Grady Spears has set up shop at this ranch-style restaurant, where rodeo attire abounds and there’s a porch with views of the setting sun. Even better, the food reflects Spear’s famous attention to detail. Bob Armstrong Dip gets an upgrade, with layers of beef tips, cheese, and guacamole served with house-made flour tortilla chips. Chicken-fried steak (not in need of a knife) is buttermilk-and-beer-battered and served with wilted spinach and mashed potatoes. Chicken and dumplings come in a warm crockery bowl with carrots and corn and a bonus fried chicken wing. The star of our evening was the marvelously tender Dr. Pepper-braised short ribs. Bar.