Sometimes we miss the old location, with its travel posters and elbow-to-elbow seating. But the new spot offers space enough to talk to your own companions and concentrate on the artfully prepared food. The tough choice is whether to order from the Vietnamese or Chinese section of the menu. So do both. With its pile of cilantro, bean sprouts, and jalapeño, the
beef pho always warms our spirits. And a Cantonese classic like chicken with barely steamed snow peas leaves us feeling nourished. (12/12)