The din is never optional at the city’s most popular place to be seen and nosh. Portions challenge those Spanx-tight minis and knock-off Louboutins, but we do love a challenge. The salmon ceviche brightly balances lime and onion against the buttery fish. Grilled meats are a specialty, and the aguja norteña (thin chuck steak) dressed with borracho beans, onions, and salt-roasted chiles is revelatory. We also like the chile relleno, draped in golden batter, stuffed with cumin-spiced shrimp and cheese, and bathed in a chile and tomato stew. (11/12)