We’re always tempted to yodel here. Granted, that would be in marked contrast to the lusty corridos and gritos that normally punctuate the air in this color-saturated cavern. Cheerful waitresses shoulder platters buckling with family-size portions of coastal Tex-Mex, like shrimp cocktails bigger than Adele’s hair. (These beauties are awash in shrimp, avocado, and shards of jalapeño.) Our head-on huachinango gazed from the great beyond in an inspired veracruzana sauce. An evening band offered a spirited rendition of “El Rey,” a fitting coda to a fading night. Bar.