For great Gulf Coast seafood, we head straight to Goode. Both locations have their charm—one a railcar diner, the other like a yacht club—but the Katy Freeway spot is larger, and we’re partial to eating in the bar under the huge, fifties-era black and white photos of fishermen. We made a feast of two specials: meaty halibut, jazzed-up with jumbo lump crab, artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, and capers in a delicate wine and butter sauce, and snapper topped with shrimp and avocado in a vivid Creole sauce. Our purist opted for simple grilled catfish served with five plump shrimp and a lemon wedge. (8/13)