Walking into Frederick's makes us feel like insiders—maybe it's the around-the-corner entrance; the dim, cool interior; the glitzy little bar. Mostly it's that we can get sublime food, showcasing the best of French technique and Asian flavors (both elements of chef Frederick Costa's heritage, shared here in the kitchen with his brother Michel). We never stray far from seafood, always fresh and delicately sauced, as with a recent flounder with Thai curry and coconut milk beurre blanc. The ambience is quiet and the service is all one could wish. (8/13)