Crisp, nicely charred pizzas are a strength here, whether the classic margherita, the more unusual taleggio (arugula, pear, and truffle oil), or a special of the day, like tomato, prosciutto, wild mushrooms, and pine nuts. But we enjoy the menu’s other dishes just as much: tender gnocchi al ragù, a simple arugula salad dotted with roasted tomatoes, the sinfully rich truffled egg toast. Expect a crowd, either in the old two-story house or on the covered patio in front. (8/13)