The same instinctive memory Proust had for his beloved madeleines, we have for the comfort food here, which hasn’t changed in forty or so years. Talk about retro: the chicken tetrazzini, with its gooey cheese and tender spaghetti, took us back to high school days. The turnip greens and zucchini muffins are just the same too, but the black-eyed pea salad has gotten a little kicky with the addition of jalapeños. You simply must end a meal like this with a slice of coconut cake slathered in fluffy icing. (6/12)