Things start revving up around 6:30 at this popular Park Cities place. Beneath a ceiling that appears to be an upside-down wooden ship hull, we happily feasted on chicken meatballs with red sauce, Greek-style chicken with avgolemono (lemon) sauce and tabbouleh, and wild-mushroom meatloaf with house-made Worcestershire sauce and mashed potatoes. A deconstructed banana cream pie featured chunks of fruit on the plate drizzled with a burnt-sugar sauce, plus the usual banana cream filling in a crust. (8/13)