Nestled at the foot of a towering apartment building, Mulberry is a diminutive wine bar with a gutsy kitchen. The menu is small, seasonal, and selective, with items that range from salmon sashimi and chilled sweet-corn soup to sizeable pork-and-beef meatballs in a good-enough-to-drink white wine broth and pork belly ravioli, the savory pasta packets adventurously (and successfully) paired with grilled peaches, garlic scapes, and ricotta salata. There are distractions here and there; a TV lends a sports-bar feel, and, on our visit, loud music made conversation difficult. But overall it’s worth your while to occasionally bypass the flashier establishments nearby, grab a seat at the U-shaped bar, and be pleasantly surprised by your food. (7/13)