No longer does ambience trump food at the lobby restaurant of the grand Hotel Galvez, which first opened its doors in 1911. Our cumin-infused Indian slaw arrived topped with two perfectly grilled jumbo shrimp while our companion's delicately flavored crab salad came wrapped in ribbons of cucumber. Both revealed a deft hand in the kitchen, but it was the New-Fashioned Chicken Soup fresh julienne vegetables, slivers of chicken breast, and crisp rice noodles that received the highest accolades. Bravo. Bar.