If you haven’t been to a Larry McGuire joint, you’re likely new to Austin. This spacious seafood spot under giant oak trees is currently the Lady Mary Crawley in his family of restaurants—beautiful and very established. We weren’t quite as taken with our choices this time; the fried calamari was fine but not exceptional, as were the grilled oysters with chewy bits of bacon. Similarly, bouillabaisse, although brimming with shellfish, seemed lackluster. Our new favorite is the classic surf and turf, pieces of rare hanger steak paired with chunks of king crab in the shell; a side of watercress served as a bracing palate cleanser.