With each visit, the little stone room, with its knick-knack-filled shelves and tall communal tables, seems comfier and more settled. This time the star savory dish was our first, goat cheese blended with Texas olive oil and ramps, bolstered by a brilliant carrot-cumin-honey foam, baby carrots, and tidy fried chick-pea-flour cubes (think geometric hush puppies). Spicy coarse-textured lamb sausage contrasted with velvety slices of cured smoked lamb loin, all set off by whole-barley crisps. With so many riches emerging from Bryce Gilmore’s open kitchen, we hardly expected to get something that didn’t work, but we did: salty, stringy cow’s cheek in a rather lackluster beef duo (although the tongue was tender and terrific). If you’ve never had beet panna cotta, the deep rose color is otherworldly, and who would have guessed the earthy root vegetable went so beautifully with a sweet crumble of candied green olives and almonds. We’re surprised and delighted here, every single time. (06/13)